Ilocano Food in Ilocos Norte
Part of the Ilocos Norte travel guide — see every topic in All Ilocos Norte Guides.
Ilocos Norte has a strong food culture. Ilocano cooking is simple and savoury, with garlic, vinegar, local vegetables and crispy pork. Many dishes are linked to particular towns. Food is a big reason to visit the province, and it is often cheap and very good. This guide covers the main dishes and where to try them.
Batac empanada
The town of Batac is famous for its empanada. Like the Vigan version, it has a crispy orange shell made with rice flour. Inside are green papaya, mung beans, egg and longganisa sausage. It is deep-fried fresh and eaten hot with spicy local vinegar. Batac has many stalls selling empanada, often in a dedicated food area. Laoag also has many places that sell it. Try one from a busy stall. Some stalls let you choose extra fillings, such as more egg or more sausage. A single empanada makes a filling snack.
Bagnet and longganisa
Bagnet is pork belly that is boiled and then deep-fried until the skin is very crispy. It is a favourite across the Ilocos region and is eaten with rice and vinegar or tomatoes. Laoag longganisa is a garlicky sausage, often eaten for breakfast with garlic rice and egg. Many shops sell bagnet and longganisa to take home. Ask for vacuum-packed products if you are travelling far. Bagnet is rich, so share a plate with friends. Many restaurants serve it with fresh vegetables.
Vegetable dishes
Pinakbet is the best-known Ilocano vegetable dish. It includes eggplant, bitter melon, squash, okra and beans, cooked with fermented fish or shrimp paste. Dinengdeng is a lighter vegetable soup flavoured with fish sauce. Poqui-poqui is a dish of grilled eggplant mashed with egg, tomato and onion. These dishes are healthy, simple and very common in homes and local restaurants. They are a good balance for the rich fried food. Ask for a small plate if you want to try many dishes. Restaurants often serve pinakbet as a side dish. Vegetables are usually from local farms.
Vinegar and snacks
Ilocos is known for its sugarcane vinegar, often called sukang Iloko. It is used in cooking and as a dip for fried food. Local shops sell bottles to take home. Other snacks include chichacorn (crispy fried corn) and sweet rice cakes. Miki, a thick noodle soup, is a popular comfort food, especially on cool mornings. Markets in Laoag and Batac are good places to try snacks. Vinegar bottles need careful packing for travel. Ask the shop to wrap them well.
Where to eat
Laoag has many restaurants serving Ilocano food, from simple eateries to comfortable dining places. Batac is the best town for empanada. Small roadside restaurants along the coast serve grilled fish and local dishes. Public markets are good for cheap meals and fresh produce. Choose busy places with fresh cooking. Cash is useful in small shops, though many larger restaurants take cards. Ask your hotel for its favourite local restaurant. Prices are usually low. Try at least one meal in a market.
Ilocano Food at a glance
| Getting there | Laoag and Batac are the main food towns; Batac is a short drive south of Laoag |
|---|---|
| Hours | Empanada stalls often busiest from late afternoon; check locally |
| Cost | Cheap; most local dishes are low-cost |
| Best time | Any time of year |
| Bring | Cash in small notes and an appetite |