Kecil and Besar in Perhentian Islands

Part of the Perhentian Islands travel guide — see every topic in All Perhentian Islands Guides.

The name Perhentian means "stopping point" in Malay, from the islands' historic role as a waypoint on the trading route between Bangkok and Malaya. There are two of consequence, separated by a narrow channel: Perhentian Kecil, the small island, and Perhentian Besar, the big one. Neither has roads. Everything moves by boat, and the choice between them shapes the trip — Kecil is cheaper, younger and louder, Besar is quieter, more expensive and more comfortable.

Perhentian Kecil

The backpacker island. Long Beach on the east side is the main strip: a wide white beach with budget chalets, dive shops, beach bars, fire shows after dark and a young crowd, busy in season and genuinely lively. Coral Bay on the west side, ten minutes' walk over the hill, is calmer, has better snorkelling straight off the sand and gets the sunset. Between them a jungle path crosses the ridge. Elsewhere on Kecil, D'Lagoon, Petani and Adam and Eve beaches are quiet, reached by water taxi or a rough trail.

Perhentian Besar

Larger, greener and considerably quieter, with accommodation spread along several separate beaches rather than concentrated in one strip. The main west-facing beaches hold most of the mid-range resorts and have good snorkelling and calm swimming; Teluk Dalam on the south side is more isolated. There is less to do in the evening, which is the point for most people who choose it. Families, divers who want an early night, and anyone who found Long Beach too much end up here.

Moving between them

Water taxis run constantly between the beaches and the two islands, hailed from the beach or booked at your accommodation, at 15–40 ringgit per person depending on distance and time of day — after dark the price roughly doubles. There is no scheduled service and no timetable; you tell someone where you want to go and a boat comes. Jungle paths cross both islands and are genuinely rough — steep, rooty and unlit — so the boat is usually the sensible option, particularly at night.

What to expect

There are no cars, no roads and no proper towns. Electricity is generator or partly solar and some places run it only for part of the day. Freshwater is limited and often brackish. Phone signal is patchy and wi-fi is slow to non-existent, which many people regard as a feature. There is no hospital, only a small clinic. ATMs are scarce and unreliable, and most places are cash-only — bring what you will need from the mainland, with a margin.

Kecil and Besar at a glance

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All 12 Perhentian Islands guides·Malaysia tourist maps

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