Tham Lod Cave in Mae Hong Son
Part of the Mae Hong Son travel guide — see every topic in All Mae Hong Son Guides.
Tham Lod is one of the largest caves in northern Thailand. It is near the village of Soppong in Pang Mapha district, on Route 1095 between Pai and Mae Hong Son town. The Nam Lang River flows right through the cave. Visitors explore it with a local guide and a gas lantern, and use bamboo rafts for part of the way. This guide explains the tour, the evening birds and the best time to go.
The cave and the river
The cave system is about 1.6 km long and is cut through old limestone by the Nam Lang River. The river enters on one side of the hill and comes out on the other. Inside there are large rooms with stalactites, stalagmites, columns and flowing stone shapes. Some formations are very tall and are lit only by your guide's lantern. The air is cool and damp. The Pang Mapha area has many other caves, including some of the longest known caves in Thailand, so it is a popular area for cave lovers.
The guided lantern tour
You visit the cave with a local guide, who carries a gas lantern. You buy the guide service at the entrance building. The guides are from nearby villages and know the cave very well. A tour visits the main rooms, with ladders and steps in some places. In parts of the cave, you cross or follow the river on a simple bamboo raft. The guide explains the formations and points out old wooden coffins found in the cave, made by people who lived here very long ago. Do not touch the formations, as skin oil damages them.
Birds and bats at dusk
The cave is home to a large number of bats and swiftlets, a small kind of bird. In the late afternoon and around sunset, thousands of swiftlets fly back into the cave from feeding outside, while bats start to fly out. It is a loud, fast and impressive sight. The best place to watch is near the cave exit, where the river leaves the hill. Many visitors plan their tour to finish there at dusk. Ask your guide about the best time on the day. Bring insect repellent and a small torch for the walk back.
Water levels and seasons
The cool, dry season, from about November to February, is the easiest time to visit. The river is low and calm, and rafts can reach most parts. In the rainy season, the river can rise quickly. Some parts of the cave may then be closed or only reachable by raft, and tours may be shorter. Ask at the entrance what is open on the day. From about March to April, smoke from fires can make views along the road hazy. Wear shoes that can get wet and that grip on wet rock.
Getting there
Tham Lod is about 55 km from Pai, on the way to Mae Hong Son town. From Soppong, a side road leads north to the cave. Most visitors come by scooter or car as part of the Mae Hong Son Loop. Minivans between Pai and Mae Hong Son stop at Soppong, and local motorbike taxis can take you from there. Staying one night in the Soppong area lets you visit in the late afternoon, see the birds at dusk and continue your trip the next morning. There are guesthouses and small restaurants in the area.
Tham Lod Cave at a glance
| Getting there | Near Soppong in Pang Mapha district; about 55 km from Pai on Route 1095 |
|---|---|
| Hours | Daytime tours; birds return around dusk |
| Cost | Fees for the guide, lantern and rafts |
| Best time | November to February for low water; late afternoon for the birds |
| Bring | Shoes for wet rock, insect repellent and a torch |