The Mae Hong Son Loop in Mae Hong Son

Part of the Mae Hong Son travel guide — see every topic in All Mae Hong Son Guides.

The Mae Hong Son Loop is a road trip of about 600 km through the mountains northwest of Chiang Mai. It starts and ends in Chiang Mai and passes Pai, Mae Hong Son town and Mae Sariang. The road has a huge number of curves and steep hills. Many people ride it by motorbike, and others drive a car. This guide explains the route, the time you need and how to stay safe.

The route

The loop uses two main roads. Route 1095 runs about 245 km from near Chiang Mai through Pai and Pang Mapha to Mae Hong Son town. Route 108 runs about 349 km from Mae Hong Son south through Khun Yuam and Mae Sariang, then back east to Chiang Mai. Together they make a loop of about 600 km. You can go either way. Many people go counter-clockwise, via Pai first, and ride the hardest curves while they are fresh. Some add a side trip up Doi Inthanon from the southern part of the loop. Every town on the way has fuel stations, hotels and places to eat.

Counting the curves

The northern road, Route 1095, is famous for its curves. A popular number is 1,864 curves between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son, and you can buy souvenir certificates and T-shirts with this number. Other counts are higher, so think of it as a symbol, not an exact figure. The first part, from Chiang Mai to Pai, alone has about 762 curves. Many curves are tight and steep, with drops at the side of the road. The southern road, Route 108, is longer but easier, with gentler curves. If you get car sick, take a tablet before you start, and sit in the front.

How many days you need

Plan at least four days for the full loop, and five or six if you want to stop and explore. Driving times are long because of the curves, even when the distance looks short. A common plan is one night in Pai, one or two nights in Mae Hong Son town, and one night in Mae Sariang or Khun Yuam. Add a night at Pang Mapha if you want to visit Tham Lod cave at dusk. Do not plan to drive after dark. The roads have few lights, and animals and potholes are hard to see.

Safety on the road

Accidents are common on these roads, especially on the Chiang Mai to Pai section. Only ride a motorbike if you already have real experience on mountain roads. Thai law requires a helmet and a valid motorcycle licence. Rent a bike with enough power and good brakes, and check them before you leave. On long downhill parts, use a low gear and do not hold the brakes all the time. Stay well to the left on blind curves, and watch for trucks, minivans and gravel. In the rainy season, roads are slippery and landslides can close sections. A car is safer, and many rental companies offer one-way or return rentals from Chiang Mai.

When to go

The best time is the cool, dry season, from about November to February. The air is clear, the roads are dry and the mountain mornings are cold, so bring a warm jacket. From about March to April, smoke from fires across the north often makes the air poor and hides the views. The rainy season, from about June to October, brings green hills and waterfalls, but also slippery roads, fog and landslides. If you travel in this season, keep your plans flexible. Weekends and Thai holidays are busy in Pai and at viewpoints, so book rooms ahead.

The Mae Hong Son Loop at a glance

Getting thereStarts and ends in Chiang Mai; Route 1095 via Pai (about 245 km) and Route 108 via Mae Sariang (about 349 km)
HoursDrive in daylight only
CostMotorbike or car rental, fuel and rooms; prices vary by season
Best timeNovember to February; smoky air March to April; slippery roads June to October
DaysAt least four days; five or six to explore

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