Pai in Mae Hong Son
Part of the Mae Hong Son travel guide — see every topic in All Mae Hong Son Guides.
Pai is a small town in a green valley on Route 1095, about 135 km northwest of Chiang Mai. It is the first big stop on the Mae Hong Son Loop. Pai is known for its relaxed mood, guesthouses, cafés and evening market. Around the town there are rice fields, hills, waterfalls and hot springs. This guide covers the main sights and how to get there.
Getting to Pai
Minivans leave from the Arcade bus station in Chiang Mai many times a day. The trip takes about 3 hours, with a short stop on the way. The road has about 762 curves, so many people feel sick. Take a tablet before you leave, and do not eat a big meal just before. You can also drive or ride yourself, but allow more time and stop often. Riding a motorbike to Pai is only for experienced riders, because accidents on this road are common. Buses and minivans also continue from Pai to Mae Hong Son town.
Pai Canyon
Pai Canyon is about 8 km south of town, next to the road to Chiang Mai. It is a group of narrow red-earth ridges with steep drops on both sides. Paths run along the top of the ridges, with wide views over the forest and hills. Sunset is the most popular time, when the light turns the ground orange. Some paths are very narrow, with drops of up to about 50 m and no rails. Wear shoes with good grip, stay away from the edges and do not walk there in the dark or after rain. Bring a torch for the walk back to the road.
Waterfalls and the valley
The countryside around Pai is the main reason to stay a few days. Mo Paeng waterfall, west of town, has several levels and small pools for swimming. Pam Bok waterfall is on the road toward Chiang Mai, before Pai Canyon, in a narrow rocky gorge. Waterfalls are strongest at the end of the rainy season and in the early cool season. Rice fields fill the valley floor and are green in the rainy season and golden around harvest. Rent a bicycle to explore the flat roads near town, or a scooter to go further if you are an experienced rider.
The town and the walking street
The town centre is small and best explored on foot. In the evening, the main street becomes a walking street with food stalls, small shops and street musicians. The market is busiest in the high season. You can eat noodles, grilled meat, fresh juice and sweets from around the world. Pai has many cafés, small bars, yoga studios and guesthouses by the river. Some guesthouses are simple huts with views over the fields. Keep noise low at night, out of respect for local families. Most cash machines are on the main streets.
When to go
The busy season runs from about October to February, when nights are cool and days are sunny. Rooms can be hard to find at this time, so book ahead, especially at New Year. Mornings in December and January can be cold, often with mist in the valley. From about March to April, smoke from fires across the north often makes the air poor and the views hazy. The rainy season, from about June to October, brings green fields and full waterfalls, but the road from Chiang Mai can be slippery. The town is quieter and cheaper in this season.
Pai at a glance
| Getting there | About 135 km from Chiang Mai on Route 1095; minivans from the Arcade bus station, about 3 hours |
|---|---|
| Hours | Walking street in the evening; Pai Canyon best at sunset |
| Cost | Rooms from simple huts to resorts; some waterfalls and hot springs charge a fee |
| Best time | October to February; smoky air March to April |
| Bring | Motion sickness tablets, a warm layer and a torch |