Night Markets and Khao Soi in Chiang Mai

Part of the Chiang Mai travel guide — see every topic in All Chiang Mai Guides.

Chiang Mai is a great city for eating outdoors at night. There are weekly walking-street markets, a market that opens every evening, and simple food stalls near the old city gates. The most famous local dish is khao soi, a curry noodle soup. This guide explains the main markets, what to eat, and how to plan your evenings.

Sunday Walking Street

The biggest market of the week is the Sunday Walking Street. It starts at Tha Phae Gate on the east side of the old city and runs west along Ratchadamnoen Road for about 1 km. Side streets also fill with stalls. It starts in the late afternoon, around 4 pm, and runs until about 11 pm. You can buy handmade crafts, clothes, art and many kinds of street food. It gets very crowded after dark. Arrive before 6 pm for an easier walk and better photos. Keep your bag in front of you in the crowds. Many temple courtyards along the road become food courts with tables.

Saturday market and the Night Bazaar

On Saturday evening, Wualai Road becomes a walking street. It is just south of the old city, close to Chiang Mai Gate. The market runs from about 5 pm to 10 pm. Wualai is a traditional silver-making area, so look for silver jewellery and bowls as well as food. The Night Bazaar is different. It opens every evening on Chang Klan Road, about 700 m east of the old city moat. It is larger and more tourist-focused, with clothes, souvenirs and food courts. Prices at the Night Bazaar are often open to bargaining. Be friendly and fair, and do not bargain for food.

North Gate and local markets

For simple local food, go to the Chang Phueak Gate, also called the North Gate. Every evening, food stalls open around the gate and along the road north of it. A famous dish here is khao kha moo, slow-cooked pork leg on rice. Most stalls have a few plastic tables and are busy with local people. Warorot Market, near the Ping River, is busy in the daytime. It sells dried food, sausages, chilli pastes and other snacks you can take home. Both places are good for trying northern food at local prices. Bring small notes and coins, because many stalls only take cash.

Khao soi: the dish of the north

Khao soi is a soup of soft egg noodles in a rich curry broth made with coconut milk. A handful of crispy fried noodles sits on top. It usually comes with chicken or beef. On the side you get pickled mustard greens, sliced shallots and a piece of lime. Add these as you like, with a little chilli paste. Many shops open in the morning and close in the mid-afternoon when the soup runs out. Some khao soi shops in the city are listed in the Michelin Guide, but small street shops can be just as good. Ask your hotel staff for their favourite.

Other northern dishes

Northern Thai food is less sweet than food in the south and uses more herbs. Try sai ua, a grilled pork sausage with lemongrass and herbs. Nam prik noom is a green chilli dip, eaten with pork crackling and fresh vegetables. Khanom jeen nam ngiao is a rice noodle soup with tomato and pork. Sticky rice is eaten with the hand, often from a small basket. Many markets sell grilled meat, fresh fruit juice and coconut ice cream. If you do not eat spicy food, learn to say mai phet, which means not spicy. Drink bottled water and choose busy stalls.

Night Markets and Khao Soi at a glance

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All 7 Chiang Mai guides·Where to stay in Chiang Mai·Thailand tourist maps

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