Chiang Mai

The unofficial capital of the north is small enough to walk across, with a moat-bordered Old City full of Lanna-era temples. Doi Suthep, the mountain temple above the city, is the postcard view. The surrounding hills are the centre of Thailand’s elephant-sanctuary tourism — choose carefully, the ethical and the touristy use the same vocabulary — and the cooking-school scene is the best in the country. The Sunday Walking Street market on Ratchadamnoen is the night to plan around. Pai, three hours northwest on a famously curving road, is the secondary destination most visitors add on.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep at sunrise, the gilded chedi gleaming above clouds rolling over the forested mountainside, naga staircase below in soft golden light — Doi Suthep at sunrise.

Wat Chedi Luang, the partially ruined fifteenth-century brick chedi guarded by stone elephants, ancient bodhi tree in the foreground, warm afternoon light — Wat Chedi Luang.

Sunday Walking Street on Ratchadamnoen Road, a lantern-lit pedestrian street lined with handicraft stalls and street food vendors with a glowing temple gate at the end of the lane — Sunday Walking Street.

Yi Peng Festival sky lanterns, thousands of glowing paper lanterns rising into the night sky over a torch-lit clearing with faint silhouettes of monks and devotees below — Yi Peng sky lanterns.

Loy Krathong floating krathongs on the Ping River, banana-leaf offerings adorned with marigolds and lit candles drifting on dark water with warm reflections on the surface — Loy Krathong on the Ping River.

Bo Sang paper umbrella village near Chiang Mai, rows of brightly painted handcrafted parasols drying in the sunshine outside a traditional teak workshop, an artisan applying floral patterns — Bo Sang paper umbrellas.

Karen elephant sanctuary in Mae Taeng, two rescued Asian elephants bathing in a shallow river surrounded by jungle, mahout in traditional indigo shirt watching from the bank in soft morning light — Karen elephant sanctuary, Mae Taeng.

Doi Inthanon twin royal pagodas, the stone Naphamethanidon and Naphaphonphumisiri chedis on a misty highland ridge with manicured gardens in soft cool morning light — Twin royal pagodas, Doi Inthanon.

Where to stay: The most luxurious hotels in Chiang Mai →

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7 in-depth guides to Chiang Mai — food, nightlife, beaches, transport, money and the practical detail that is hard to find.

Chiang Mai

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