Old City by Bike and on Foot in Chiang Mai
Part of the Chiang Mai travel guide — see every topic in All Chiang Mai Guides.
The old city of Chiang Mai is a square about 1.5 km on each side. A moat and parts of an old brick wall go around it. It was founded in 1296. Today it is a calm area of small lanes, guesthouses, cafés, gardens and old wooden houses. It is flat and small, so it is easy to see by bicycle or on foot. This guide suggests a simple route and some tips for the heat and traffic.
Gates, moat and walls
Four main gates mark the sides of the old city. Tha Phae Gate is on the east side and is the best place to start. It has a large open square, popular for photos and events. Chang Phueak Gate is in the north, Suan Dok Gate is in the west and Chiang Mai Gate is in the south. The four corners have brick bastions from the old walls. The moat is lined with trees and fountains. A walk all the way around the moat is about 6 km. It is pleasant early in the morning, when the air is cool and the roads are quiet.
By bicycle
Inside the walls, traffic is calmer than in the rest of the city, so cycling is a quick way to get around. Many guesthouses and shops rent bicycles by the day. Check the brakes, tyres and lock before you leave. Ride on the left side of the road, like the cars. The roads that circle the moat are busy, so use small lanes inside the walls when you can. Cross the main roads at traffic lights. Some shops also rent electric bikes. Ride slowly in the narrow lanes, where people walk and dogs may sleep in the street.
A simple walking route
Start at Tha Phae Gate in the morning. Walk west along Ratchadamnoen Road, the main street of the old city. Turn right at Phra Pokklao Road and walk north to the Three Kings Monument. Behind it is the Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Centre, a museum about the city. Then walk west through small lanes full of cafés and guesthouses. Finish at Buak Hard Park in the southwest corner. It is a green park with a lake, where local people jog and relax. The route is about 3 to 4 km. You will pass many temples on the way; most are free to enter if you dress modestly.
Cafés, craft and quiet corners
Between the main streets there are many small cafés, juice bars and bakeries. Some are in old teak houses with gardens. Others are small modern spaces with a few seats. Small shops sell handmade bags, notebooks, soap and clothes. There are also cooking schools, massage shops and art studios. The southwest corner is quieter and greener than the east side, which is busier with tourists. On Sunday, the main street becomes a large walking market from the late afternoon. Plan to explore in the morning, rest at midday, and come back out for the evening market.
Heat, air and timing
The old city is flat, but the sun is strong. The best time to walk or cycle is from early morning to about 10 am, and again in the late afternoon. Drink plenty of water and wear a hat. The cool season, from about November to February, is the most comfortable time. March to May is hot, and from about February to April the air is often smoky from fires in the north. On those days, check an air quality app and wear a good mask. In the rainy season, heavy rain usually comes in short storms. Wait in a café until it stops.
Old City by Bike and on Foot at a glance
| Getting there | Central; about 10 to 15 minutes by car from the airport |
|---|---|
| Hours | Open at all times; best early morning and late afternoon |
| Cost | Free to walk; bicycles rented by the day at low cost |
| Best time | November to February; avoid midday heat; smoky air possible February to April |
| Distance | About 1.5 km on each side; about 6 km around the moat |