Local Food to Try in Sun Moon Lake
Part of the Sun Moon Lake travel guide — see every topic in All Sun Moon Lake Guides.
Food at Sun Moon Lake mixes three things: fish from the lake, Indigenous cooking from the Thao and other mountain peoples, and the local black tea, which turns up in snacks and desserts. The main food areas are the old street at Ita Thao and the restaurants of Shuishe village. Most places are casual and inexpensive. Many close early in the evening, so plan dinner before eight o'clock if you are staying by the lake.
Black tea eggs
The best-known snack at the lake is the tea egg. Eggs are simmered for a long time in a dark broth made with local black tea, soy sauce and mushrooms, until the shell cracks and the flavour soaks in. A famous stall near Xuanguang pier has sold them for many years, and there is often a queue when boats arrive. They are sold in many other places around the lake too. Tea eggs are cheap, warm and filling, and they make a good snack between boat rides or on a bike ride.
Fish from the lake
Restaurants around the lake serve freshwater fish caught or raised locally. The most famous is a white fish that locals call president fish, served steamed, fried or in soup. Small lake shrimp and small fried fish are also common, often as side dishes. Many restaurants in Shuishe and Ita Thao show the fish of the day at the door. Ask for the price before you order, as fish is sometimes priced by weight. A steamed fish with ginger and spring onion is a simple way to taste it at its best.
Ita Thao old street
The main street at Ita Thao is lined with food stalls. You will find grilled meats on skewers, sausages, sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes, millet cakes and fresh fruit juices. Some stalls sell millet wine, a sweet, cloudy drink with a long history among Taiwan's Indigenous peoples. The street gets crowded at weekends and in the afternoon, when boats bring large groups. Walk to the quieter end for more space. Look out for restaurants run by Thao families, which serve dishes with wild greens and local herbs.
Mountain pepper and wild greens
Look for dishes made with maqaw, a mountain pepper used in many Indigenous kitchens in Taiwan. The small black berries have a lemony, peppery taste. Cooks use them with chicken, pork, fish and soups, and you can buy them dried as a gift. Wild greens gathered from the hills, such as fern shoots, are also common on menus. These dishes are fresh and light, and they show a side of Taiwanese food that many visitors miss. Ask staff what is in season, as menus often change with the time of year.
Tea desserts and cafes
Local cafes use Sun Moon Lake black tea in many ways. Try black tea ice cream, black tea cakes and cookies, and fresh milk tea made with Ruby or Assam leaf. Several cafes have terraces over the water, which are pleasant places to rest after a bike ride. Shuishe has the widest choice of cafes and bakeries. Many tea shops will make you a fresh cup of hot or iced tea to drink while you walk. For a gift, packaged tea and tea biscuits travel well and keep for months.
Local Food to Try at a glance
| Getting there | Main food areas are Ita Thao old street and Shuishe village |
|---|---|
| Must try | Black tea eggs, steamed lake fish, maqaw dishes, Ruby milk tea |
| Hours | Many places close early in the evening — eat by 8pm |
| Cost | Mostly casual and inexpensive; fish may be priced by weight |
| Best time | Weekday lunch, before boat groups arrive |