Black Tea and the Tea Fields in Sun Moon Lake

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Most of Taiwan is known for oolong, but the hills around Sun Moon Lake grow black tea. Planters began growing Assam tea here in the 1920s, during the period of Japanese rule, because the climate and soil suited it. Today the township of Yuchi, on the lake's western side, is the heart of a small but famous black tea industry. You can walk through the fields, visit tea farms, and taste teas that you will rarely find outside Taiwan.

How black tea came to the lake

In the 1920s, planters introduced Assam tea plants to the Yuchi area. The hills here are at a similar height to tea regions further south in Asia, with warm days, cool nights and frequent mist. Black tea from the area was exported for decades. Later, as costs rose, exports fell and many farms closed. From the late 1990s, local farmers and researchers worked to bring the tea back as a high-quality local product. Today Sun Moon Lake black tea is sold across Taiwan, and many farms welcome visitors.

Ruby black tea

The best-known local tea is Taiwan Tea No. 18, usually called Ruby or Hong Yu. It was developed by Taiwan's Tea Research and Extension Station and released in 1999, from a cross between a Burmese tea plant and a wild tea native to Taiwan. The brewed tea is a deep red colour. Its taste is smooth and sweet, with notes that many people describe as cinnamon and fresh mint. It is easy to drink without milk or sugar. Other local types include Assam black tea, which is stronger and maltier, and several newer varieties.

Walking the tea fields

The Maolan Mountain trail starts near the Yuchi branch of the Tea Research and Extension Station and climbs through rows of tea bushes. It is the easiest way to see the fields up close without a guide. Early mornings are best, when mist lies in the valleys and the light is soft. Please stay on the path and do not pick leaves, as the fields are working farms and research plots. Spring and early summer are when the fresh green shoots grow, and you may see pickers at work in the rows.

Tasting and buying

Tea shops line the main streets of Shuishe and Ita Thao, and many farms in Yuchi have their own tasting rooms. A tasting is usually free or very cheap, and staff will brew several teas so you can compare them. Ask for loose-leaf tea rather than tea bags for the best flavour. Tea is sold in sealed packs that travel well. Prices vary a lot with grade, so taste before you buy. Local cafes also use the black tea in desserts, ice cream and milk tea, which are worth trying on a warm afternoon.

How to brew it at home

Use water just off the boil for black tea. A common guide is about three grams of leaf for every 150 millilitres of water, steeped for about three minutes, but follow the advice on the pack or ask the seller. Good leaf can be steeped two or three times. Taste the tea plain first, as the best Ruby has a natural sweetness. Store opened packs in an airtight container, away from heat, light and strong smells. Most teas are best within a year of purchase.

Black Tea and the Tea Fields at a glance

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