Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan in Bali

Part of the Bali travel guide — see every topic in All Bali Guides.

Nusa Lembongan is the easy one. Eight square kilometres, thirty minutes by fast boat from Sanur, small enough to scooter around in an afternoon, and developed just enough to have good places to eat and stay without having lost the plot. It is joined to Nusa Ceningan by a narrow yellow suspension bridge that only takes scooters and pedestrians. Between them they offer white-sand beaches, a mangrove forest, cliff bars, seaweed farms and a genuinely relaxed pace — the version of the Nusa islands for people who would rather swim than drive.

Lembongan

Jungutbatu is the main beach and where the boats land: a long east-facing strip looking back at Bali with Agung behind it, best at sunrise. Mushroom Bay is the prettiest swimming beach. Dream Beach on the south coast is a white cove with a strong shorebreak and cliffs either side. Devil's Tear, five minutes' walk from it, is a rock platform where the swell explodes upward through a blowhole — genuinely spectacular in a big swell and genuinely dangerous if you stand too close. The mangrove forest at the northern end can be paddled or toured by boat.

Ceningan

Cross the Yellow Bridge — scooters and pedestrians only — and the pace drops again. The Blue Lagoon on the east side is a narrow inlet of astonishing colour framed by cliffs, with a cliff jump for those inclined and a couple of bars looking over it. Secret Beach and Sunset Point sit on the west. Between them is a landscape of seaweed farms: shallow lagoons divided into plots where seaweed is grown on lines and dried on the shore, still a real industry here even as tourism has taken over. Ceningan has a handful of places to stay and almost no traffic.

In the water

Lembongan is the base most divers use for the Penida sites — Manta Point, Crystal Bay, Blue Corner — which are twenty to thirty minutes away by boat. Locally, Mangrove Point at the northern tip is a pleasant drift over coral, and the channel between Lembongan and Ceningan produces strong tidal flow that is dived as a drift. Snorkel trips visit Manta Point, Crystal Bay and the mangroves in a half day for 250,000–450,000 rupiah. Surf breaks — Shipwrecks, Lacerations, Playgrounds — sit off Jungutbatu over reef and are intermediate-and-above.

Practicalities

Fast boats from Sanur take thirty minutes and cost 200,000–350,000 rupiah each way. Scooters rent for 70,000–100,000 a day and the island roads, while narrow, are far better than Penida's. Accommodation runs 300,000–900,000 for guesthouses and 1.5–5 million for the better hotels, several of which sit above Mushroom Bay or on the Ceningan cliffs. There are ATMs but they run out; bring cash. Water and power are both limited. And the island genuinely empties in the evening — expect dinner and a drink rather than a night out.

Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan at a glance

Size~8 km²; scooterable in an afternoon
CrossingSanur ~30 min, IDR 200,000–350,000
The bridgeYellow suspension bridge to Ceningan — scooters only
Set pieceDevil's Tear blowhole; Ceningan's Blue Lagoon
Snorkel tripIDR 250,000–450,000 for a half day
ScooterIDR 70,000–100,000 — roads far better than Penida

More in Bali