Street Food and Night Eats in Phnom Penh

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Food in Phnom Penh is fresh, herby and not usually very spicy. Many dishes use kroeung, a paste of lemongrass, galangal, turmeric and lime leaves, and prahok, a strong fermented fish paste. The day starts early with noodles and rice dishes on the street. In the evening, food carts and grill stalls fill the pavements. This guide covers the dishes to try, how the day of eating works, and where to find good night food.

Num banh chok for breakfast

Num banh chok is the classic Khmer breakfast. The name refers to soft, lightly fermented rice noodles. The cook places a nest of cold noodles in a bowl, then pours over a green fish gravy made with kroeung, lemongrass and often coconut milk. On top go fresh herbs, raw cucumber, banana flower, bean sprouts and long beans. You mix everything together before you eat. Sellers often carry the noodles and gravy in baskets, or sit at small tables near markets. Go early, as many sellers finish by mid-morning. Other breakfast favourites are bai sach chrouk, grilled pork on broken rice, and kuy teav, a clear pork noodle soup.

Fish amok and Khmer classics

Fish amok is often called a national dish of Cambodia. It is a steamed fish curry made with kroeung, coconut cream and egg. The mix is steamed in a banana-leaf cup until it becomes soft, like a light mousse. It is served with steamed rice. Many restaurants also make it with chicken or tofu. Other dishes to try are lok lak, stir-fried beef with a lime and black-pepper dip, and samlor korko, a thick vegetable soup. Kampot pepper, grown in the south of the country, appears in many sauces. For a first meal, a Khmer restaurant with a picture menu is an easy start.

The night food scene

After dark, the city eats outside. Small grill stalls sell skewers of beef, chicken and pork with pickled vegetables. Carts sell fried noodles, fruit with chilli salt, and sweet desserts with coconut milk and jelly. The riverside night market has a large food area with mats on the ground. The streets near the riverside, such as the Street 130 area, also have many food stalls in the evening. Local beer gardens serve grilled seafood and big plates to share. A good habit is to choose busy stalls, where food is cooked fresh in front of you. Ask for less chilli if you prefer mild food.

Drinks and sweets

Iced coffee with sweet condensed milk is everywhere, from street carts to air-conditioned cafés. Fresh sugar-cane juice is pressed on the spot and served with ice. Fruit shakes are cheap and good, made with mango, dragon fruit or passion fruit. Coconut water is sold straight from the shell. Desserts often use coconut milk, sticky rice, palm sugar and pandan leaf. Try num ansom, sticky rice cooked in a banana leaf, or a pumpkin custard. Palm sugar from the countryside has a soft caramel taste. Many stalls sell small bags of fresh fruit with chilli salt, which make a good snack on a hot afternoon.

Food tours and good habits

A guided food tour is an easy way to try many dishes in one evening. Tours usually go by tuk-tuk and stop at several stalls and small restaurants. Book at your hotel or online, and tell the guide about allergies or foods you do not eat. When you eat on your own, carry small notes, as street sellers rarely have change for big ones. Bottled water is cheap and easy to find. Ice in bars and restaurants is usually made in factories, but if you have a sensitive stomach, start slowly. Most stalls show the price on a board or will tell you before they cook.

Street Food and Night Eats at a glance

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All 7 Phnom Penh guides·Where to stay in Phnom Penh·Cambodia tourist maps

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