Central and Russian Markets in Phnom Penh
Part of the Phnom Penh travel guide — see every topic in All Phnom Penh Guides.
Phnom Penh has two famous markets, and they are very different. Central Market, or Psar Thmei, is a bright yellow art deco building from 1937 with a huge central dome. It is worth a visit for the building alone. The Russian Market, or Psar Toul Tom Poung, is a low, crowded maze south of the centre, full of clothes, crafts and food stalls. This guide explains what to see and buy in each, and how to shop calmly.
Central Market: the building
Central Market was completed in 1937. It was designed by the architect Jean Desbois, and the work took about 22 months. The plan is simple and bold. A tall central dome, about 26 metres high, sits in the middle. Four long arms with arched roofs reach out from it in a cross shape. Inside the dome, light comes in through rows of slatted openings, and air moves through the hall, so it stays fairly cool. When it opened, it was said to be the biggest market in Asia. From 2009 to 2011, the building had a major restoration. The original concrete was repaired, and new low stall areas were added around the outside.
Central Market: what to buy
Under the dome you find jewellery and gold stalls, and watch sellers. The four arms sell clothes, shoes, bags, souvenirs, T-shirts and electronics. Around the outside there are flower stalls, fruit, dried fish and small food counters. The market is more touristy than local markets, and prices can start high. It is still a good place to buy simple souvenirs, a krama scarf or tropical fruit. Go in the morning, when it is cooler and the stalls are fresh. Many stalls start to close in the late afternoon. For a more local feel, Orussey Market, a short ride to the south-west, sells everyday goods and has very cheap food.
The Russian Market
The Russian Market is in the Toul Tom Poung area, south of the centre. Its nickname dates from the 1980s. Today it is one of the most popular markets for visitors and for people who live in the city. The stalls sit under a low metal roof, and the lanes are narrow and hot. You find clothes, factory seconds from local garment makers, silk, wood carvings, silver, lacquer boxes, spare parts and tools. The food area in the middle serves noodle soup, rice dishes, fruit shakes and iced coffee. The streets around the market are now full of cafés, small boutiques and restaurants, so it is easy to spend half a day here.
How to shop
Most stalls expect you to bargain, especially for clothes and souvenirs. Ask the price, offer a lower one with a smile, and meet in the middle. If the price does not feel right, say thank you and walk on. Food, drinks and fixed-price shops do not bargain. US dollars and Cambodian riel are both used, and small change often comes back in riel. Carry small notes, as sellers may not have change for big ones. Check the size and the seams of clothes before you pay. Keep your phone and wallet in a front pocket in crowded lanes. Both markets are hot, so carry water and take breaks.
Central and Russian Markets at a glance
| Getting there | Central Market is in the centre; Russian Market is about 3 km south, by tuk-tuk or ride-hailing app |
|---|---|
| Hours | Both open from early morning; many stalls close in the late afternoon |
| Cost | Free to enter; bargain at most stalls |
| Best time | Morning, before the midday heat |
| Pay with | US dollars or riel, in small notes |