Old Town, Art and Cafés in Battambang
Part of the Battambang travel guide — see every topic in All Battambang Guides.
Battambang's old town sits on the west bank of the Sangkae River. The streets follow a neat grid laid out in the early 20th century. Rows of two-storey shophouses with shutters and balconies line the riverside streets, and many now hold cafés, galleries and small shops. The city is known for its art and music, and in 2023 it joined the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a City of Gastronomy. This guide covers the architecture, the art scene and the cafés.
The shophouse streets
The heart of the old town lies between the river and the central market. Streets 1, 2 and 2.5 run parallel to the Sangkae River, with small cross streets between them. Here you find long rows of shophouses from the early and middle 20th century. Most have a shop on the ground floor and a home above, with tall wooden shutters, small balconies and faded yellow, green or blue walls. Some have been carefully restored. Others are worn, with old signs and plants on the balconies. Local projects work to protect the old buildings in a heritage area. The streets are flat and quiet, so they are easy to explore on foot.
Psar Nath and the riverside
Psar Nath is Battambang's central market. It was built in 1936 in art deco style, with a long, low shape. It was damaged by a fire in 2020, so check which parts are open. Inside and around it, stalls sell fruit, fish, clothes, gold and household goods. Food stalls nearby serve noodle soups, rice dishes and iced coffee. East of the market, the riverside road follows the Sangkae under tall trees. In the early evening, locals walk, exercise and eat by the water. A walk along the river at sunset is one of the simplest pleasures in town.
The art scene
Battambang has a strong art scene for a small city. Many well-known Cambodian painters, musicians and singers were born or trained here. Small galleries and studios in the old town show paintings, photography and sculpture by local artists, and some artists open their studios to visitors. The Phare Ponleu Selpak arts school, on the edge of town, trains young painters and designers as well as circus artists. The city also hosts the Chumnor Arts Festival, a three-day event with workshops and performances. Dates change each year, so check locally. Gallery hours are often short, so the late morning or late afternoon is a good time to visit.
Cafés and food
The old town has a relaxed café scene. Small coffee shops sit inside restored shophouses and in narrow lanes, such as the little Street 1.5 near the market. You find iced coffee with condensed milk, espresso drinks, fresh juices and cakes. In the evening, Street 2 and Street 2.5 have small bars and restaurants with Khmer and international food. Battambang's farmland grows rice, fruit and vegetables, so the food is fresh. Try num banh chok noodles for breakfast, grilled fish, and the local fruit, such as oranges and pomelo, in season. A cooking class is a good way to learn Khmer dishes and visit a local market with a chef.
Old Town, Art and Cafés at a glance
| Getting there | Old town on the west bank of the Sangkae River, around Psar Nath; easy on foot |
|---|---|
| Hours | Cafés from early morning; galleries often late morning to late afternoon |
| Cost | Free to walk; café and gallery prices are low |
| Best time | About November to February; early morning or late afternoon |
| Look for | Shophouse rows on Streets 1, 2 and 2.5; the 1936 Psar Nath market |