Battambang

Battambang countryside

One of Cambodia’s larger cities, Battambang is a slower, lower-key counterpoint to Phnom Penh — a French colonial town along the Sangkae River with intact early-20th-century shophouses, a small but lively contemporary art scene, and a countryside of rice fields and limestone hills. The famous “Bamboo Train” (norry) is a flat platform on rail wheels powered by a small motor, originally cobbled together by villagers to move goods along disused tracks; today it’s a tourist ride at the rebuilt section south of town. Catch an evening show at the Phare Ponleu Selpak circus school — the parent company that trained the founders of Phare in Siem Reap — and ride out to Phnom Sampeau, where a column of millions of bats spirals out of a cliff cave at sunset every evening of the year.

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All Battambang Guides

5 in-depth guides to Battambang — food, nightlife, beaches, transport, money and the practical detail that is hard to find.