Countryside and the Bat Cave in Battambang

Part of the Battambang travel guide — see every topic in All Battambang Guides.

The best of Battambang is outside the city. Flat green rice fields, palm trees and small villages line the roads along the Sangkae River. Families make rice paper, fish paste, rice wine and snacks by hand. At dusk, a huge stream of bats flies out of a cave at Phnom Sampeau, a limestone hill about 12 km west of town. This guide shows how to explore the countryside by bike or tuk-tuk and how to see the bats.

By bike or by tuk-tuk

The countryside around Battambang is flat, so it is good for cycling. Several local companies run half-day and full-day bike tours with a guide, often with stops at village workshops and a coffee break. Some are social enterprises that share the income with village families. If you prefer not to cycle, hire a tuk-tuk for half a day or a full day. Drivers wait outside hotels and know the usual stops. Agree the route and the price before you leave. Quiet roads follow the Sangkae River through villages, past wooden stilt houses, fruit gardens and rice fields. Start early, as the middle of the day is very hot.

Rice paper and village crafts

Many tours stop at small family workshops. At a rice-paper maker, you see a thin layer of rice batter steamed on a cloth over a fire. It is then laid on bamboo racks to dry in the sun. This paper is used for spring rolls. Other stops can include makers of prahok, the strong fermented fish paste used in Khmer cooking, and small rice-wine stills. You may also see banana chips, sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes, or dried fish. The families work in their own homes, so be polite and ask before you take photos. Buying a small bag of snacks is a kind way to say thank you.

Rice fields and the river

Battambang is one of the main rice-growing areas of Cambodia. The look of the fields changes with the seasons. In the rainy season, from about May to October, young rice plants turn the fields bright green, and the rice is often harvested later in the year. In the dry season, the fields turn gold and brown, and you see haystacks and grazing cows. Sugar palms stand tall along the field edges. Some tours offer a short kayak trip on the Sangkae River, past village houses and fishing spots. The best light for photos is early in the morning and in the late afternoon.

The bat cave at dusk

Phnom Sampeau is a limestone hill about 12 km west of Battambang. Near the foot of the hill is a large cave that is home to a huge colony of small bats, often said to number in the millions. Almost every evening, around sunset, the bats leave the cave to feed. They pour out in a long, twisting black stream that crosses the sky for many minutes. People watch from the road below, where small stalls sell drinks and snacks. Arrive before sunset to find a good spot. The exact time changes with the season and the weather. Bring insect repellent, and avoid standing directly under the stream.

Countryside and the Bat Cave at a glance

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