Karst Valleys and Rice Fields in Ban Gioc and Cao Bang

Part of the Ban Gioc and Cao Bang travel guide — see every topic in All Ban Gioc and Cao Bang Guides.

The landscape is the real reason to come to Cao Bang. Between the main sights, the road passes through valleys where rows of steep, rounded limestone peaks stand above flat rice fields. Small rivers run through the middle, and Tay and Nung villages of wooden stilt houses sit at the edges. This page covers some of the best places to stop, walk and stay.

Phong Nam valley

Phong Nam is a wide valley close to Ban Gioc, about two hours from Cao Bang city. A small river winds through bright rice fields, and karst peaks rise straight up on both sides. Stilt houses and old water wheels make it feel very peaceful. A good viewpoint sits on the road above the valley, where you can see the river curve through the fields. Many homestays here rent bicycles, so you can ride the quiet village lanes. Some also offer kayaking on the river or guided walks to small viewpoints. It is a great place to spend a night.

Ma Phuc pass

Ma Phuc pass is on the main road from Cao Bang city toward Ban Gioc. The road climbs in tight bends up the side of the mountain. From the top there are wide views back over the hills and valleys. Many drivers stop at the viewpoint for photos of the zigzag road below. Go slowly on the bends, because trucks and buses use this road too. Mist often covers the pass in the early morning, especially in winter. On a clear day it is one of the most scenic stretches of the drive.

Thang Hen lakes

Thang Hen is a group of natural lakes high up in the hills, at about 1,000 metres above sea level. Local sources count about 36 lakes. The largest, Thang Hen lake itself, is surrounded by forest and steep peaks. The water level rises and falls with the seasons, and in the dry months some lakes become meadows. You can walk around parts of the shore, or take a short bamboo raft ride where it is offered. The air is cool and fresh. The lakes are about an hour's drive from Cao Bang city.

Rice seasons and colours

The valleys change colour through the year. Farmers plant rice with the rains in late spring and summer, and the fields turn bright green. In about September and October the rice ripens and the valleys glow gold before harvest. After the harvest, from late autumn to spring, the fields are brown and quiet, and mist fills the valleys on cold mornings. In early spring, fruit trees bloom around the villages. Farmers here work hard on small plots. Stay on paths and field edges, and ask before you take close photos of people working.

Karst Valleys and Rice Fields at a glance

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