Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai Parks in Sukhothai

Part of the Sukhothai travel guide — see every topic in All Sukhothai Guides.

Sukhothai was the capital of an early Thai kingdom in the 13th and 14th centuries. Its old city is now Sukhothai Historical Park, about 12 km west of the modern town. In 1991 UNESCO listed it, with Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet, as the Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns. This guide looks at the old city as a piece of planning and building, and adds Si Satchanalai as a quiet day trip to the north.

A planned city

The old city of Sukhothai is a neat rectangle, about 2 km from east to west and 1.6 km from north to south. Earth walls and moats ran around it, with a gate in the middle of each side. Inside the walls stood the royal palace and about two dozen temple complexes. Many more ruins lie outside the walls. In total the park has about 193 ruins spread over some 70 square km. Roads now follow the old lines, so it is easy to see the shape of the city. The modern town, called New Sukhothai, was founded in 1793 by the Yom river, 12 km to the east.

Water engineering

Sukhothai stands on dry land away from a big river, so its builders had to collect and store water. In the hills to the west they built the Saritphong Dam, an earth dam that is also called Thamnop Phra Ruang. Channels and pipes carried water from the hills toward the city gates. Inside the walls, large ponds stored water for the dry season. The biggest are Traphang Ngoen and Traphang Thong. Smaller ponds and moats surround many of the old buildings. Today these ponds are full of lotus and water lilies, and they are a big part of the park's calm, green look.

Architecture and landmarks

The best known shape in Sukhothai is the lotus-bud chedi, a slim brick tower with a top like a closed lotus flower. It became the signature style of the city. Wat Mahathat, the largest complex inside the walls, has a lotus-bud tower in the centre and rows of columns around it. Wat Si Sawai has three tall towers in an older, Khmer-influenced style. Wat Sa Si stands on an island in a pond. North of the walls, Wat Si Chum has a tall square hall with a narrow opening, and a huge seated statue that fills the space. Most buildings use brick and laterite, once covered in stucco.

Si Satchanalai

Si Satchanalai was the second city of the kingdom. Its park lies about 55 km north of Sukhothai, near the Yom river, and covers about 45 square km. It is much quieter than Sukhothai, with fewer visitors and more trees. The best known landmark is Wat Chang Lom, a bell-shaped chedi with a base lined by 39 elephant statues. Nearby, the older town of Chaliang sits on a bend of the river. The area was also a big pottery centre. Around 200 old kilns have been found along the river, where glazed celadon ware was made. You can hire a bike at the entrance and ride between the sites.

Tickets and planning

Sukhothai Historical Park is split into zones. The central, north and west zones each have their own ticket for foreign visitors, with a small extra fee for a bike or a car. The east and south zones have fewer sites. Hours change, but the park usually opens early in the morning and closes in the evening, with some late openings. Plan two or three hours for the central zone, and add time for the north and west zones. Si Satchanalai has its own ticket. Bring water and a hat, because shade is limited. The cool, dry months from November to February are the most comfortable.

Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai Parks at a glance

More in Sukhothai

All 5 Sukhothai guides·Thailand tourist maps

Featured Videos