Island Hopping in Penghu

Part of the Penghu travel guide — see every topic in All Penghu Guides.

The best part of Penghu is out on the water. Boats leave from the main islands to two groups of smaller islands. The north sea islands have white sand, clear shallow water and water sports. The south sea islands have quiet fishing villages, basalt cliffs and the famous Twin Hearts stone weir on Qimei. Most visitors give one full day to each group. In summer there are many boats and tours. In the windy season from about October to March, boats run less often and can stop with little warning.

Jibei and the north sea islands

Jibei is the largest island in the north sea group, about 5.5 kilometres north of Baisha island. Boats leave from Chikan and Houliao piers on Baisha, and the ride is short. The main sight is a long sandbar on the southwest side. It is made of white sand and broken shell and coral, and it stretches more than 700 metres into the sea. At low tide you can walk far out with water on both sides. Shops near the pier rent scooters, so you can ride around the small island in about an hour. In summer there is snorkelling, jet skis, banana boats and other water sports. Many tours also stop at smaller islands nearby for snorkelling.

Stone weirs

A stone weir is a low wall of stacked basalt and coral stones in the shallow sea. At high tide fish swim over the wall. When the tide goes out, the water drains away and the fish stay trapped inside, so people can catch them by hand or with nets. Penghu has hundreds of these weirs, more than almost anywhere in the world. Jibei alone has about 80. Many are no longer used for fishing, but they still make great patterns in the water. You see them best from a high point or a viewing deck at low tide, when the walls stand out against the sand and the clear blue water.

Qimei and the Twin Hearts

Qimei is the southernmost large island in Penghu, about an hour or more by boat from Magong. Its best-known sight is the Twin Hearts stone weir, two heart-shaped pools of stone side by side in the sea. Local builders from Jibei rebuilt it in its present form in 1937 after typhoons damaged an older weir. A path leads to a viewpoint on the cliff above. Go at low tide, when the stone walls are clear and the hearts look sharp. At high tide they almost disappear. Ask your tour or hotel for the tide time on your day. Qimei also has grassy cliffs and quiet coastal roads, and you can rent a scooter near the pier to see more.

Wang-an, Tongpan and Hujing

Most south sea tours stop at several islands in one day. Tongpan is a small island about 20 minutes by boat from Magong, ringed with tall basalt columns. Hujing is a larger island nearby with sea cliffs and views. Wang-an is a quiet island with old stone houses, grassland and wide beaches. Green sea turtles come to some of its beaches to lay eggs in summer, and the island has a turtle center where you can learn about them. Some tours also pass the uninhabited islets of the South Penghu Marine National Park, with clear water and basalt cliffs. Tours differ a lot in which islands they include, so check the plan before you book.

Booking a boat tour

The easiest way to see the outer islands is a day tour. Your hotel can book one, or you can go to the ticket counters near the piers in Magong for the south sea islands and on Baisha for the north sea islands. Most tours include the boat, some free time on each island, and sometimes a scooter or a short bus ride. Bring sun cream, a hat, water and a light jacket, because the sun is strong and the boat ride can be wet and windy. People who get seasick should take medicine before the trip. Weather decides everything here, so keep a spare day in case your boat is cancelled.

Island Hopping at a glance

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