Empanada and Longganisa in Vigan
Part of the Vigan travel guide — see every topic in All Vigan Guides.
Vigan has some of the best-known food in the north of the Philippines. The two most famous dishes are the Vigan empanada and Vigan longganisa. Both are simple, filling and full of flavour. Ilocano food in general is savoury and often uses garlic, vinegar and local vegetables. This guide covers what to eat and where to find it.
Vigan empanada
The Vigan empanada is a deep-fried pastry with a thin, crispy orange shell. The colour comes from achuete, a natural seed used in cooking. Inside is grated green papaya, egg and Vigan longganisa. It is cooked fresh in front of you and served hot, often with spicy local vinegar for dipping. The food stalls at Plaza Burgos are the most famous place to try it, especially in the evening. Expect a short wait at busy stalls. You can ask for extra egg or no meat at some stalls. A single empanada is a good snack, and two make a light meal.
Vigan longganisa
Vigan longganisa is a small, short sausage, packed with garlic. It is less sweet than many other longganisa in the Philippines and has a savoury, slightly sour taste. It is often eaten for breakfast with garlic rice and a fried egg. Many restaurants serve it, and shops sell packs to take home. If you are travelling far, ask for vacuum-packed sausages and keep them cool. Fried longganisa smells strongly of garlic. Some restaurants also serve it in sandwiches or with pasta. Try it at breakfast in your hotel or a local eatery. It is a good dish to try if you like savoury food.
Bagnet and other dishes
Bagnet is pork belly that is boiled and then deep-fried until the skin is very crispy. It is eaten with rice and a dip of vinegar or tomato and onion. Okoy is a crispy fritter, often made with small shrimp. Pinakbet is a vegetable dish with bitter melon, eggplant, squash and other vegetables, cooked with fermented fish sauce. Sinanglao is a beef soup with a sour, rich flavour. Try several small plates to taste more. Spicy vinegar is on most tables.
Where to eat
Plaza Burgos is best for empanada and quick snacks in the evening. Small family restaurants around the historic centre serve longganisa, bagnet and other Ilocano dishes. Some cafés in old houses on Calle Crisologo serve local food in a comfortable setting. The public market sells fresh local produce and cooked food. Eat where locals eat, and choose busy places where food is cooked fresh. Many eateries close early in the evening, so plan dinner in good time. Small eateries usually take cash only. Bring small notes for stalls and tricycles.
Empanada and Longganisa at a glance
| Getting there | Empanada stalls at Plaza Burgos, in the centre of Vigan |
|---|---|
| Hours | Empanada stalls busiest in the late afternoon and evening; check locally |
| Cost | Cheap; most dishes are low-cost |
| Best time | Evening for empanada; morning for a longganisa breakfast |
| Bring | Cash in small notes and an appetite |