Klias Wetlands and Fireflies in Borneo (Sabah)
Part of the Borneo (Sabah) travel guide — see every topic in All Borneo (Sabah) Guides.
The Klias Peninsula, about two hours south-west of Kota Kinabalu by road, is a flat land of rivers, mangroves and nipa palm swamp. It is the easiest place near the city to see proboscis monkeys in the wild, and after dark the riverside trees fill with flashing fireflies. Most visitors come on an afternoon tour from KK that combines a sunset river cruise, a simple dinner and a night boat ride, and are back in the city by late evening. No hiking is needed, so it suits families and anyone short on time.
The proboscis monkeys
The proboscis monkey lives only on Borneo, and the Klias rivers are one of the best places to see it. Adult males are large, with a long hanging nose and a round belly; females and young are smaller, with short upturned noses. They live in family groups and come to the trees along the riverbank in the late afternoon to feed and sleep, which is why the cruises go out around four or five o'clock. You will usually also see long-tailed macaques and often silvered langurs, a grey leaf monkey whose babies are bright orange.
Birds and the river
The boat moves slowly along brown, calm water between walls of mangrove and nipa palm. Kingfishers, egrets and herons are common, and hornbills and eagles appear on lucky days. Monitor lizards sometimes rest on the banks, and saltwater crocodiles live in these rivers, so stay in the boat and keep your hands inside. Guides spot animals fast, so ask yours to point things out. A pair of binoculars and a camera with a zoom lens make a big difference here, because many animals sit high in the trees.
The fireflies
After dinner, the boats go out again in the dark. Thousands of small fireflies gather in certain riverside trees and flash on and off, so the trees look like they are covered in tiny lights. Guides often use a small torch to draw a few fireflies close to the boat. The show is best on dark nights with no moon and little wind; a bright full moon or heavy rain can make it weaker. Turn off your phone screen and flash, since bright light spoils the view for everyone.
Planning your trip
Tours run every day from Kota Kinabalu and usually include hotel pick-up, the river cruise, dinner and the firefly ride, leaving KK around lunchtime and returning at about nine or ten at night. Book a day or two ahead in the busy months. Bring insect repellent, a light rain jacket, long trousers for the evening, and cash for drinks. Ask your operator how big their boats are and whether they use quiet engines; smaller groups see more. Times and routes can change, so check locally.
Combining it
Klias fits well on a free afternoon at the start or end of a Sabah trip, since it needs no early start. You can spend the morning on the Tunku Abdul Rahman islands, or at Gaya Street's Sunday market, and still join an afternoon tour. If you have a car, the small town of Beaufort and the coast at Kuala Penyu are nearby, and Kuala Penyu is the boat point for Pulau Tiga, a quiet island with beaches and mud volcanoes. Families find it a gentle, easy wildlife trip with plenty to see.
Klias Wetlands and Fireflies at a glance
| Where | Klias Peninsula, about 2 hours south-west of Kota Kinabalu |
|---|---|
| Star animal | Proboscis monkey, found only on Borneo |
| Best time | Late afternoon cruise, then fireflies after dark |
| Fireflies | Best on dark, moonless nights with little wind |
| Bring | Insect repellent, rain jacket, binoculars |
| Trip length | Half a day from KK; back late evening |