Neighbourhoods in Tokyo

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Tokyo is not one centre. It is many small centres joined by trains. Each area has its own style, and most are only a few stops apart. This guide covers five areas that suit a first or second visit: busy Shibuya, big Shinjuku, older Asakusa, creative Shimokitazawa and calm Nakameguro. Pick two or three areas per day. Walk the side streets, not only the main roads. That is where the small shops, cafes and food places are.

Shibuya

Shibuya is young, loud and bright. The famous Scramble Crossing is right outside the Hachiko exit of Shibuya Station. When the lights change, people cross from every side at once. For a view from above, go to the upper floors of the buildings around the crossing, or to the Shibuya Sky deck on top of Shibuya Scramble Square. The station area has been rebuilt over the last ten years, so there are many new towers with shops and restaurants. Center Gai is the busy street for fashion and fast food. Walk 10 to 15 minutes north and you reach Harajuku and the quieter streets of Omotesando.

Shinjuku

Shinjuku Station is one of the busiest stations in the world. Give yourself extra time to find the right exit. The east side has big stores, cinemas and the Kabukicho entertainment area. The west side has tall office towers, including the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building with its free view decks. Near the west exit is Omoide Yokocho, a narrow lane of tiny grilled chicken bars. Golden Gai, a block of very small bars, is on the east side. Shinjuku Gyoen, one of the best parks in the city, is a short walk to the southeast. Shinjuku is a good base, because many train lines meet here.

Asakusa

Asakusa is the older side of Tokyo, on the Sumida River in the northeast. The main landmark is Senso-ji, with its large red Kaminarimon gate. Around it are shopping streets with snacks, crafts and small souvenir shops. Kappabashi street, a short walk west, sells kitchen tools, knives and the plastic food models you see in restaurant windows. Across the river you can see Tokyo Skytree, about 20 minutes away on foot. River boats leave from Asakusa and go down the Sumida. Come early in the morning or in the evening, when the day groups are gone and the streets are calmer.

Shimokitazawa

Shimokitazawa is a small area of narrow streets, a few minutes from Shibuya or Shinjuku by train on the Keio Inokashira or Odakyu line. It is known for second-hand clothes shops, record stores, small live music clubs and little theatres. Many shops open late in the morning, so come after 11 am. After the Odakyu tracks moved underground, new spaces opened on the old rail land. Reload and Bonus Track are low buildings with cafes, bookshops and small brands. There are many coffee shops and curry places. Shimokitazawa is best for slow walking and browsing, not for big sights.

Nakameguro

Nakameguro is a calm area along the Meguro River, one stop from Shibuya on the Tokyu Toyoko line. A narrow canal runs between two rows of cherry trees. In cherry blossom season, usually late March to early April, the trees cover the water and many people come at night to see the lights. It gets very crowded then. The rest of the year it is quiet. The river is lined with small cafes, design shops, bakeries and bars. Under the train tracks near the station there is a long row of small restaurants. Walk south along the river toward Meguro, or north toward Ikejiri-Ohashi.

Neighbourhoods at a glance

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