Nightlife in Tokyo

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Tokyo nightlife is often small and friendly. Instead of one big club, people go to tiny bars with six or eight seats, or to food alleys full of small stalls. Many of these places are easy to visit if you know a few simple rules. This guide covers Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku, Ebisu Yokocho, and tips for cover charges, manners and getting home.

Golden Gai

Golden Gai is a small block of six narrow lanes on the east side of Shinjuku, a few minutes from the station. It has more than 200 tiny bars. Many have only five to eight seats. Each bar has its own theme, such as jazz, rock, film or books. Some bars are for regulars only, but many welcome visitors and show their prices and cover charge on a sign at the door. Most bars charge a cover, so check before you sit down. Taking photos and video on the lanes is not allowed without permission. Bars open in the evening and many stay open until very late.

Omoide Yokocho

Omoide Yokocho is a narrow lane of small eating places next to the west exit of Shinjuku Station. Most places serve grilled chicken skewers, called yakitori, and other grilled food with beer. Many have only a counter with a few seats, and smoke from the grills fills the lane. It is busy from early evening. It is a good place for a short stop before or after dinner. Some places have English menus with prices. Be ready to share a counter with other people. Order a drink first, then a few skewers at a time.

Ebisu Yokocho

Ebisu Yokocho is an indoor alley of small food stalls, a short walk from Ebisu Station, one stop from Shibuya on the JR Yamanote line. Many small shops sit side by side under one roof. They serve grilled meat, seafood, oden, noodles and drinks. The seats are close together, so it is easy to talk with your neighbours. It is lively and loud, and busy with young local workers after work. It is open late. Ebisu also has many quiet cocktail and craft beer bars on the side streets, and the area feels relaxed and safe.

Cover charges and manners

Many small bars charge a cover fee, sometimes called a seat charge. It may include a small snack. This is normal and not a trick, but always check the price first. In very small bars, order at least one drink per person, and do not stay long if you only have one drink when people are waiting. Do not bring outside food or drinks. Be careful of street touts in Kabukicho and Roppongi who invite you to bars. Some of these bars overcharge. Choose places yourself, check prices on the menu, and keep an eye on your bill.

Getting home

Most trains in Tokyo stop around midnight and start again at about 5 am. Check the time of your last train with a map app before you go out. If you miss it, taxis are safe but expensive late at night. Taxi apps like GO show the price and let you call a car. Some people stay out until the first train. Karaoke rooms and some cafes stay open all night. Tokyo is generally safe at night, but stay with friends, watch your drink and keep your belongings close. Drink water and know your limits.

Nightlife at a glance

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