Dotonbori and Street Food in Osaka

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Osaka people say kuidaore, which means "eat until you drop". The best place to try it is Dotonbori, a canal street in the Namba area. Big lit signs cover the buildings, and food stalls line the street. This guide explains the three classic Osaka foods, how to visit Dotonbori, where to eat in the daytime, and a few simple rules at the table.

Dotonbori by night

Dotonbori runs along a canal in the Namba district, in the south of central Osaka. The famous part is near Ebisubashi bridge. Here you see the Glico running man sign and the big moving crab on the Kani Doraku restaurant. A paved walkway runs along the water on both banks, so you can walk below the street noise. The area is busiest from about 6 pm to 10 pm. Come at dusk to see the signs light up. Short canal boat rides leave from the walkway in the evening. The nearest stations are Namba and Nipponbashi. Shinsaibashi, a long covered shopping street, starts on the north side of the canal.

Takoyaki

Takoyaki are small round balls of batter with a piece of octopus inside. Cooks make them in an iron pan with round holes. They turn each ball with a thin pick until it is crisp outside and soft inside. Then they add a brown sauce, mayonnaise, green seaweed powder and thin flakes of dried fish. A street seller in Osaka is said to have created takoyaki in 1935. Stalls sell them in boats of six, eight or more. The inside is very hot, so wait a minute or bite a small hole first. Many stands in Dotonbori have short lines in the evening. Most move fast.

Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki is a thick savoury pancake. The name means "grilled as you like". The Osaka style mixes cabbage, egg and flour into a batter with pork, squid or shrimp. The cook fries it on a hot iron plate called a teppan. On top go a sweet brown sauce, mayonnaise, seaweed powder and fish flakes. In many shops the teppan is built into your table, and staff cook it in front of you or help you cook it. Use the small metal spatula to cut and eat. Some shops also serve yakisoba noodles from the same plate. Okonomiyaki is filling, so one per person is usually enough.

Kushikatsu and the sauce rule

Kushikatsu are skewers of meat, seafood or vegetables, covered in breadcrumbs and deep fried. They are cheap and quick, and you order a few at a time. The old home of kushikatsu is Shinsekai, but you can find shops in Namba and Umeda too. Each table has a shared metal pot of thin sauce. The rule is simple: dip each skewer only once. Never dip again after you take a bite. If you want more sauce, use a leaf of the free raw cabbage to scoop sauce onto your food. Many shops have English menus with pictures. Prices are per skewer, so the bill is easy to follow.

Kuromon market in the daytime

Kuromon Ichiba is a covered market street a short walk east of Namba, near Nipponbashi Station. It has fish shops, fruit stands, butchers and small food counters. Many stalls cook food for you on the spot, such as grilled scallops, sea urchin, wagyu beef skewers and fresh fruit. It is best from late morning to early afternoon. Many shops close in the late afternoon. Prices here are often higher than at a normal supermarket, so check the price before you order. Some stalls ask you not to eat while you walk. Eat at the stall or at the seating areas inside the market.

Dotonbori and Street Food at a glance

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