Onsen and Ryokan Etiquette in Mount Fuji and Hakone
Part of the Mount Fuji and Hakone travel guide — see every topic in All Mount Fuji and Hakone Guides.
Hakone and the Fuji Five Lakes are full of onsen, or hot spring baths. Many visitors stay in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn with tatami rooms and its own baths. The rules are simple, but they matter to local people. This guide explains how to bathe step by step, what to do if you have tattoos, and how to behave in a ryokan.
Bathing step by step
Baths are split into men's and women's sides, often with blue and red curtains. Check the sign, because some places swap sides each day. In the changing room, take off all your clothes and put them in a basket. Swimsuits are not allowed. Take only a small towel into the bath area. First, sit on a stool at the washing station. Wash your whole body with soap and rinse well. Only then get into the hot water. Get in slowly, because the water is often 40 °C or more. Do not swim or splash. Before you go back to the changing room, dry yourself with the small towel.
Towels, hair and manners
Never put your towel in the bath water. Many people fold it and rest it on their head, or leave it on the side. Tie up long hair so it does not touch the water. Keep your voice low. Do not take photos or use your phone in the bath area. Do not bathe if you have drunk a lot of alcohol. Drink water before and after, because hot water makes you lose fluids. Stay in for a few minutes at a time, then rest. Children are welcome, but they must follow the same rules. Many baths offer free shampoo, soap and hair dryers.
Tattoos
Many onsen do not allow people with tattoos in shared baths. The rule is old, but many places still follow it. Some baths now accept small tattoos if you cover them with a skin-coloured patch. A growing number accept tattoos fully. Rules differ from place to place, so always check the website or ask before you go. The easiest choice is a private bath. Many ryokan and some day spas have private baths that you book for a set time, for your group only. Another choice is a room with its own open-air bath. In these, tattoos are not a problem.
Staying in a ryokan
At a ryokan, take off your shoes at the entrance and put on the slippers provided. Take off the slippers before you step on the tatami mats in your room. There are separate slippers for the toilet. Your room will have a cotton robe called a yukata. Wrap the left side over the right side. You can wear it to dinner and the baths. Dinner is often a long set meal of many small dishes, served at a fixed time. Tell the ryokan about any food needs when you book. In the evening, staff lay out futon beds on the floor while you are at dinner.
Day trips to the baths
You do not need to stay the night to enjoy an onsen. Hakone-Yumoto, the first stop in Hakone, has many day-use baths near the station. Some ryokan also open their baths to day visitors at set hours. Around Lake Kawaguchi, several baths and hotels have open-air pools with views of Fuji on clear days. Bring your own small towel or rent one at the desk. Weekday afternoons are usually quiet. Weekends and holidays get busy, especially in winter. A short soak after the Hakone loop or a day of walking is a great way to rest tired legs.
Onsen and Ryokan Etiquette at a glance
| Getting there | Day-use baths near Hakone-Yumoto Station and around Lake Kawaguchi |
|---|---|
| Hours | Day baths usually open from late morning to evening; ryokan baths often open late at night and early morning for guests |
| Cost | Day baths charge an entry fee; private baths and towels may cost extra |
| Best time | Weekday afternoons; cold months for open-air baths |
| Tattoos | Check each bath's policy; private baths are the easiest choice |