The Hakone Loop in Mount Fuji and Hakone
Part of the Mount Fuji and Hakone travel guide — see every topic in All Mount Fuji and Hakone Guides.
Hakone is a mountain area of hot springs, lakes and volcanic valleys, about 80 to 90 minutes from Tokyo. The classic way to see it is a loop on five kinds of transport: a mountain train, a cable car, a ropeway, a boat and buses. On clear days you see Mount Fuji from several points. This guide walks through the loop in order and explains the Hakone Freepass.
The Tozan mountain train
The loop starts at Odawara or Hakone-Yumoto. From Hakone-Yumoto, the small red Hakone Tozan train climbs into the mountains to Gora. The line is steep. In some places the train stops, the driver changes ends, and it climbs the next part of the slope in the other direction. These are called switchbacks. In June and July, hydrangea flowers bloom along the tracks. The ride from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora takes about 40 minutes. Get off at Chokoku-no-Mori, one stop before Gora, for the Hakone Open-Air Museum. It has large sculptures on lawns, a Picasso hall and a warm foot bath.
Cable car and ropeway
At Gora, change to the Hakone Tozan Cable Car. It climbs 1.2 km up a steep slope to Sounzan in about 9 minutes. At Sounzan, change to the Hakone Ropeway. The gondolas fly high over the hills to Owakudani. On clear days you see Mount Fuji ahead as you rise. Owakudani is a valley of steam and yellow rock, made by a volcano about 3,000 years ago. Here you can buy black eggs, boiled in the hot spring water until the shells turn black. The ropeway then continues down to Togendai on the shore of Lake Ashi.
Volcanic gas and closures
Owakudani is an active volcanic area. The air smells of sulphur. Officials advise people with asthma, heart problems or breathing problems, and pregnant women, not to go into the valley. The old walking path up to the steam vents has been closed since 2015. The ropeway sometimes stops because of volcanic gas or strong wind. When this happens, replacement buses usually run on the same route. Check the operator's website on the morning of your trip. If the ropeway is closed, you can still take buses to Lake Ashi and do the rest of the loop.
Lake Ashi boat
From Togendai, a sightseeing boat crosses Lake Ashi. The boats are built to look like old sailing ships, which children love. The trip to Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone on the south shore takes about 25 minutes. On a clear day Fuji appears behind the hills to the west. Near Moto-Hakone, a large red gate stands in the water by the shore of the lake. It is a popular photo spot, and there is often a line to take pictures. From Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi, buses go back down to Hakone-Yumoto and Odawara in about 40 to 60 minutes.
The Hakone Freepass
The Hakone Freepass is sold by Odakyu, the railway company that runs most of the loop. It comes in 2-day and 3-day versions. It covers the Odakyu train from Shinjuku or Odawara, the Tozan train, the cable car, the ropeway, the boat and many local buses. It also gives discounts at about 70 places, such as museums and hot springs. The Romancecar express from Shinjuku is not included, so you need a separate express ticket. You can buy the pass online or at Odakyu stations. If you do the full loop once, the pass usually saves money and time at ticket windows.
The Hakone Loop at a glance
| Getting there | Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto about 80 minutes; Shinkansen to Odawara |
|---|---|
| Hours | Transport runs from morning to early evening; the boat and ropeway end in the late afternoon |
| Cost | Hakone Freepass for 2 or 3 days; Romancecar express ticket is extra |
| Best time | Clear mornings; weekdays are less crowded |
| Allow | A full day for the loop, more with museums and hot springs |