Togean and Wakatobi Islands in Sulawesi
Part of the Sulawesi travel guide — see every topic in All Sulawesi Guides.
Sulawesi's two great island destinations are both deliberately hard to reach, which is much of what preserves them. The Togean Islands sit in the Gulf of Tomini in the middle of the island's arms, reachable by ferry across several hours, with no roads to speak of and simple beach accommodation. Wakatobi, off the south-east peninsula, is a national park of four main islands with reefs regarded among the best in Indonesia and one of the country's more famous dive resorts. Neither is a casual add-on.
The Togeans
An archipelago in the Gulf of Tomini with coral reefs, mangrove, a jellyfish lake where stingless jellyfish gather in their thousands, and a Bajau sea-nomad village built entirely on stilts over the water. Accommodation is simple beach bungalows on Kadidiri, Malenge, Bomba and other islands, generally full board because there is nowhere else to eat. Snorkelling and diving are good, including a Second World War aircraft wreck in shallow water. There is limited electricity, limited signal, and nothing to do beyond the water, which is the entire point.
Getting to the Togeans
This is the barrier. Ferries run from Ampana on the mainland's eastern side, and from Gorontalo in the north on an overnight crossing of ten to twelve hours. Ampana is reached by a long drive from Palu or Poso. Schedules are limited, change, and do not run every day, so the islands require flexibility measured in days rather than hours. Once there, inter-island boats run on a similar basis. Budget four days minimum including travel, and preferably a week.
Wakatobi
A national park covering four main islands — Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia and Binongko, whose initials give the name — off the south-east peninsula, in some of the richest reef water in the Coral Triangle. Coral diversity is exceptionally high and the walls and slopes are in good condition. There is a well-known upmarket dive resort on Tomia with its own airstrip and flights, and a much cheaper independent scene on Wangi-Wangi and Hoga, the latter long associated with a research station. Homestays on Hoga and Kaledupa are simple and inexpensive.
Which and when
Choose the Togeans for cheap simple beach living with good snorkelling and a real sense of remoteness; choose Wakatobi for the diving, whether at the resort end or the homestay end. Both are best in the drier months, broadly April to October in the Togeans and March to November for Wakatobi, though the Gulf of Tomini is relatively sheltered year-round. Both require cash, patience with transport and an acceptance that the schedule is a suggestion.
Togean and Wakatobi Islands at a glance
| Togeans | Gulf of Tomini — beach bungalows, jellyfish lake, Bajau village |
|---|---|
| Access | Ferry from Ampana, or overnight from Gorontalo (10–12 h) |
| Wakatobi | Four islands off the south-east peninsula, in a national park |
| Wakatobi options | An upmarket resort on Tomia; cheap homestays on Hoga |
| Why they are good | Very hard to reach — which is what protects them |
| Plan | Days of flexibility, and cash |