Ilocos Norte

The northernmost province on Luzon’s west coast, Ilocos Norte is a windswept stretch of dunes, surf, and Spanish-era churches that reads more Mediterranean than tropical. Laoag is the capital and the easiest air gateway; from there it’s an hour to Pagudpud’s white-sand beaches at the very top of the island, and the Bangui wind farm — twenty turbines lined along a black-sand crescent — sits between the two. South of Laoag in Burgos, the wind-carved Kapurpurawan limestone formations make a half-day side trip; nearby Paoay Church (1710) is the most striking of the country’s “earthquake baroque” UNESCO churches. Pair the province with a day or two in Vigan to the south.

Bangui wind farm at sunset in Ilocos Norte, twenty white wind turbines lining a long crescent of dark sand with rolling waves of the South China Sea under a fiery orange sky
Bangui wind farm at sunset.
Pagudpud Saud Beach at sunrise in Ilocos Norte, fine white sand and clear turquoise water with coconut palms leaning toward the shore under a soft pastel sky
Pagudpud Saud Beach at sunrise.
Kapurpurawan rock formations in Burgos, Ilocos Norte, white limestone outcrops carved by wind into smooth flowing shapes against the deep blue ocean in dramatic afternoon light
Kapurpurawan limestone formations, Burgos.

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