Cebu & Bohol

Cebu is the second-largest city and the country’s historical centre — this is where Magellan landed in 1521 and where the first Catholic mass in the Philippines was held. Most travellers use it as a transit hub for the surrounding diving and waterfall day trips: Kawasan Falls, the canyoneering route at Badian, and the swim-with-whale-sharks tour at Oslob (controversial; read up before booking). Bohol, the next island east, is best known for the Chocolate Hills (over a thousand near-identical conical hills) and the tiny tarsier primates of the Bohol forest.

Magellan's Cross pavilion in Cebu City, a small octagonal kiosk housing the historic wooden cross under a painted ceiling depicting the 1521 baptism, pilgrims lighting candles in warm interior light — Magellan’s Cross pavilion, Cebu City.

Basilica Minore del Santo Niño facade in Cebu, a weathered baroque coral-stone church with carved volutes and twin bell towers, devotees in the courtyard waving small images of the Santo Niño in warm afternoon light — Basilica del Santo Niño, Cebu.

Sinulog Festival street dance in Cebu, dancers in vibrant feathered headdresses and beaded costumes performing in unison along a packed street, devotees waving Santo Niño images in vivid midday light — Sinulog Festival street dance, Cebu.

Kawasan Falls turquoise pools in Cebu, a three-tiered cascade falling into vivid blue-green basins surrounded by jungle, bamboo rafts on the lower pool in dappled green light through the canopy — Kawasan Falls, Cebu.

Oslob whale shark encounter in Cebu, a snorkeler swimming alongside a colossal spotted whale shark in clear blue water with sunbeams piercing the surface from above — Whale shark encounter, Oslob.

Sirao Flower Garden in Cebu, terraced rows of vivid celosia in red, orange, and pink with a Dutch-style windmill and traditional cottage backdrop under a blue sky with soft clouds — Sirao Flower Garden, Cebu.

Bantayan Island sandbar at low tide in Cebu, a vast expanse of fine white sand dotted with starfish and clear shallow turquoise water, traditional bangka in the distance under soft morning light — Bantayan Island sandbar at low tide.

Chocolate Hills at sunrise in Bohol, more than a thousand symmetrical conical hills carpeted in golden dry-season grass stretching to the horizon under soft pink dawn light — Chocolate Hills at sunrise, Bohol.

A Philippine tarsier on a branch in Bohol, a tiny nocturnal primate with enormous round eyes clinging to a thin tree limb in the dappled green light of a jungle sanctuary — Philippine tarsier, Bohol.

Loboc River cruise at midday in Bohol, a wide bamboo floating restaurant gliding between dense jungle banks of the emerald river with a distant rondalla band playing on a riverside platform in dappled tropical light — Loboc River cruise, Bohol.

A tricycle on a coastal road in Bohol, a brightly painted motorcycle with sidecar carrying passengers along a palm-lined coastal lane in golden afternoon light — Tricycle on a coastal road, Bohol.

Lechon roasting on a bamboo spit in Cebu, a whole pig with crisp golden-brown skin slowly turning over a charcoal pit, the lechonero basting with a small banana-leaf brush in smoke and warm afternoon light — Lechon roasting on a bamboo spit, Cebu.

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