Phnom Penh

Cambodia’s capital sits at the meeting of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers and is the country’s economic and political centre. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda compound is the marquee for the country’s living monarchy; the National Museum holds the best of the surviving Khmer-era statuary; and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (a former school used as a prison from 1975) and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields outside the city are essential and harrowing visits to understand the Khmer Rouge years. The riverside promenade along Sisowath Quay is the evening gathering place, the Russian Market is the best food and souvenir hall in the city, and the rooftop bars on Street 308 are the after-dark scene. Two days is enough.

Sisowath Quay riverside promenade in Phnom Penh at sunset with evening walkers along the railing and the Tonle Sap river glowing orange beyond — Sisowath Quay at sunset.

Phnom Penh Central Market (Psar Thmei) art-deco yellow dome viewed across stalls of watches, gold and electronics with late-morning shoppers — Central Market (Psar Thmei).

Phnom Penh night market with rows of food and souvenir stalls under string lights, vendors and shoppers moving through the warm lantern glow — Phnom Penh night market.

Outdoor night-market tables in Phnom Penh packed with diners sharing grilled skewers, noodle bowls and bottled beer under festoon lights — Night-market tables.

Phnom Penh riverside night market along Sisowath Quay with vendors lined under bright canopies and the Tonle Sap river beyond — Riverside night market.

Open-air produce market in Phnom Penh with vendors arranging mounds of leafy greens, herbs and tropical fruit under colourful canopies — Open-air produce market.

Street clothing market in Phnom Penh with racks of t-shirts and scarves and vendors haggling under the awnings of a narrow alley — Street clothing market.

Modern shopping-mall atrium in Phnom Penh with a high glass ceiling, escalators rising between floors and brightly lit storefronts on each level — Shopping mall atrium.

Fashion boutique inside a Phnom Penh mall with mannequins in silk and linen pieces, polished marble floors and warm focused spotlights — Fashion boutique.

Herbal steam room with rough-cut stone benches and bowls of dried lemongrass, eucalyptus and ginger root steaming on copper trays — Herbal steam room.

Khmer wellness-spa entrance with carved-wood doors, lotus flowers floating in stone urns and warm lanterns lighting the threshold — Wellness spa entrance.

Noodle-soup street stall in Phnom Penh with a vendor ladling kuy teav broth over rice noodles, customers seated on plastic stools beside — Noodle-soup street stall.

Late-night food alley in Phnom Penh with steaming wok stations, plastic-stool diners and red lanterns under hanging fluorescent strips — Late-night food alley.

Phnom Penh Street 130 food strip at night with neon signs for Angkor Beer and Tiger, outdoor diners under tarps and \ — Street 130 food strip.

Phnom Penh rooftop bar at night with patrons leaning against the railing while the city's high-rise lights and the Mekong river spread out below — Rooftop bar, city lights.

Phnom Penh sky bar with an infinity rooftop pool, skyline views beyond and patrons lounging on day-beds at golden hour — Sky bar with rooftop pool.

Open-front bar on the Mekong riverside in Phnom Penh, wicker chairs facing the water and Angkor Beer signs above the bartender — Riverside bar, Mekong.

Phnom Penh jazz bar with a small live band on a low stage, brass section in silhouette and a candle-lit audience leaning in — Jazz bar with live band.

Wine and tapas bar in Phnom Penh with bottles displayed on backlit shelving, small plates of charcuterie and patrons at the marble bar — Wine and tapas bar.

Sports bar in Phnom Penh with several flat-screens showing matches and patrons watching from high-top tables with Angkor Beer in hand — Sports bar.

Retro dive bar in Phnom Penh with low neon signs, mismatched stools at the wood-topped bar and a haze of cigarette smoke in warm light — Retro dive bar.

Nightclub entrance in Phnom Penh at night with a red velvet rope, bouncer at the door and bright LED signage above the queue — Nightclub entrance.

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