Old Quarter Street Food in Hanoi

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Hanoi is one of the best food cities in Asia, and the Old Quarter is the easiest place to start. Many small shops cook only one dish, and some families have cooked the same dish for decades. You sit on low plastic stools on the pavement and eat with locals. This guide covers the three famous dishes, the busy food streets and the night food scene.

Pho for breakfast

Pho is a noodle soup with a clear beef or chicken broth. In Hanoi it is mainly a breakfast dish. Many of the best shops open very early and close when the broth runs out, sometimes before noon. Hanoi pho is simple. The broth is light and clean, and you add lime, chilli and garlic vinegar at the table. Fresh herbs are fewer than in the south. Pho bo is beef and pho ga is chicken. Some shops ask you to queue and pay first. Look for a shop with a big pot at the front and many local people eating. A full bowl is cheap, and you pay when you leave or at the counter.

Bun cha at lunch

Bun cha is the dish most linked with Hanoi. It is grilled pork patties and pork belly in a warm, sweet and sour fish sauce dressing. You eat it with cold rice noodles and a big plate of herbs and lettuce. Many shops also serve fried spring rolls, called nem ran, on the side. Bun cha is a lunch dish, and many shops grill over charcoal on the street from late morning. Follow the smoke and the smell. Dip the noodles and herbs into the bowl, then eat everything together. Most bun cha shops close by mid afternoon, so plan to eat it around noon.

Banh mi and quick snacks

Banh mi is a crisp, light baguette filled with pate, cold cuts, pickled vegetables, herbs and chilli sauce. In Hanoi you can also find versions with grilled pork, egg or meatballs. It is the best snack to eat while you walk. Several well-known banh mi shops are in the Old Quarter, and small carts sell it on many corners from morning to late at night. Other easy snacks are banh cuon, which are soft steamed rice rolls, and xoi, which is sticky rice with toppings. Both are popular for breakfast. Many snack sellers move around, so just stop when something looks fresh and busy.

Food streets and the night scene

In the evening, the Old Quarter fills with food. Ta Hien and the streets nearby are known for beer, grilled snacks and crowds of young people. Tong Duy Tan, just west of the Old Quarter, is a street lined with small restaurants that stay open late. Near Dong Xuan market there are lanes with stalls selling grilled meat, snails, sweet soups and fruit. Try bia hoi, a light, fresh draft beer sold in small glasses at street corners. Che is a sweet dessert soup with beans, jelly and coconut milk. Night food is cheap and fun, but streets get very busy after 8 pm, especially at weekends.

Tips for eating well

Choose busy shops with a high turnover of food. The food is fresher there. Eat each dish at its normal time: pho in the morning, bun cha at lunch, and grilled snacks at night. Most street shops show the price on a sign or will tell you. If there is no sign, ask before you order. Carry small notes, because many stalls do not take cards, although QR payment is now common. Bottled water is easy to buy. A food tour with a local guide is a good first-night choice if you feel unsure. After that, it is easy to explore on your own.

Old Quarter Street Food at a glance

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