Food and Night Markets in Ayutthaya

Part of the Ayutthaya travel guide — see every topic in All Ayutthaya Guides.

Ayutthaya is a good food town with low prices. It is known for boat noodles, for roti sai mai, a sweet wrap of candy floss, and for big river prawns. In the evening, night markets fill with grills and noodle stalls. This guide covers what to eat and where to find it.

Boat noodles

Boat noodles are a rich, dark noodle soup with pork or beef, served in very small bowls. Long ago, sellers cooked them on boats and passed the bowls up to customers on the river bank. Small bowls were easier to hand over without spilling. Today the noodles are sold in shops, but the small bowls remain. People often eat several bowls, and stack the empty ones on the table. The broth is thick and deeply savoury, with spices, dark soy and fresh herbs. You choose the noodle size and the meat. Add chilli, vinegar or sugar from the jars on the table. Shops near the rivers around the island are a good place to try them.

Roti sai mai

Roti sai mai is Ayutthaya's best known sweet. It has two parts. The first is a stack of thin, soft flatbreads, often green from pandan leaf. The second is a bag of fine threads of spun sugar, like candy floss, in pink, green or other colours. You roll some sugar threads inside a flatbread and eat it like a small wrap. Many shops make it fresh every day, and there is a row of them on the main road near the city hospital. Bags are sold by size and make an easy gift. Eat it within a few days, because the sugar threads go soft in humid air.

River prawns and riverside meals

Giant river prawns are a local favourite. They are large freshwater prawns, often split and grilled over charcoal, with a spicy, sour seafood dip. The rich head is part of the treat. Riverside restaurants around the island serve them with views of the water and the ruins. Prawns are priced by weight, so ask before you order. Other easy dishes to try are fried rice, green curry and spicy salads. Many places have picture menus. If you do not eat spicy food, say mai phet, which means not spicy, when you order.

Night markets

The best known evening market is on Bang Lan Road in the middle of the island. Stalls open in the late afternoon and stay busy into the night, selling grilled meat, noodles, fruit, sweets and drinks. Chao Phrom Market, by the Pa Sak river on the east side of the island, is a busy local market with food stalls. Hua Ro Market, in the north of the island near the river, is another local market for snacks and cheap meals. Bring small notes and coins, because most stalls take cash only. Walk around first, then pick the stalls with the longest local queues.

Tips for eating well

Food in Ayutthaya is cheap, so it is easy to try many small dishes. Lunch is the main meal at many noodle shops, and some close in the afternoon. Night markets are best from about 6 pm. Street food is usually safe when it is cooked hot in front of you. Drink bottled water or water from refill machines. Most small places do not take cards, so carry cash. Tipping is not expected at stalls, but you can leave small change at sit-down restaurants. For a cool break, try fresh coconut water or a Thai iced tea.

Food and Night Markets at a glance

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