Jiufen Old Street Food in Jiufen and Pingxi
Part of the Jiufen and Pingxi travel guide — see every topic in All Jiufen and Pingxi Guides.
Jiufen Old Street is a narrow, covered lane that winds along the hillside. It is packed with food stalls, snack shops and teahouses. For many visitors, eating your way along it is the main reason to come. The best-known dishes are simple and cheap: sweet taro balls, fish balls, meatballs and a peanut ice cream roll. Later in the day, the teahouses with sea views become the place to sit, drink tea and watch the lanterns come on.
Taro balls
Taro balls are the dish Jiufen is most known for. They are small, chewy balls made from taro or sweet potato mixed with starch, in purple, yellow and orange. They are served in a bowl with sweet beans and either shaved ice in summer or warm sweet soup in winter. Several well-known taro ball shops sit on the old street and on the steep lanes nearby. Some have back rooms with large windows that look over the hills and the sea. A bowl is cheap and filling. If the first shop has a long queue, try the next one; the dish is similar everywhere.
Street snacks
A peanut ice cream roll is another Jiufen favourite. The seller shaves a large block of peanut brittle onto a thin crepe, adds scoops of ice cream and a few leaves of coriander, then rolls it up. It sounds strange, but the mix of sweet, salty and fresh works well. Fish balls in clear soup, steamed meatballs in a soft starchy wrapper, and grilled sausages are also easy to find. Many shops offer free tastings of local biscuits, nougat and tea. Eat as you go and share dishes, so you can try more.
Teahouses
Jiufen has a long tradition of teahouses. Many sit on the steep slope, with wooden terraces and large windows that face the sea. A typical visit includes a pot of Taiwanese oolong, brewed in small cups at your table, with a plate of tea snacks. Staff will show you how to brew it if you ask. There is usually a charge for the tea leaves and a separate water fee per person. A teahouse is a good place to rest away from the crowd, and to wait for dusk. Terrace tables at sunset are in high demand, so arrive early.
Beating the crowds
Jiufen Old Street is very crowded on weekends, on public holidays, and from mid-afternoon onward when tour groups arrive. The lane is narrow, and at peak times you move slowly in a single line. If you want space to eat, come in the late morning on a weekday. If you want the lanterns at dusk, accept the crowd or stay overnight in a local guesthouse, so you can walk the lanes again after the day visitors leave. Most food shops close in the early evening, so do not arrive too late. Bring cash, as some small stalls do not take cards.
Jiufen Old Street Food at a glance
| Getting there | Bus or taxi from Ruifang station, or bus 1062 from Taipei |
|---|---|
| Hours | Most shops open late morning to early evening |
| Cost | Snacks are cheap; teahouses charge for tea and water per person |
| Must try | Taro balls, peanut ice cream roll, fish balls, oolong tea |
| Best time | Weekday late morning for space; dusk for lanterns |