High-Mountain Oolong in Alishan
Part of the Alishan travel guide — see every topic in All Alishan Guides.
The slopes below Alishan are covered in tea. This is high-mountain oolong country, where farms grow tea at roughly 1,000 to 1,600 metres. Cool air, frequent mist and slow growth give the tea a light, floral and sweet flavour. Alishan high-mountain tea is one of the best known in Taiwan. The main growing areas lie along the road up from Chiayi, around towns such as Shizhuo, Longmei and Fenqihu, and many farms welcome visitors.
What makes it high-mountain tea
In Taiwan, high-mountain tea usually means tea grown above about 1,000 metres. At this height, temperatures are cooler, and mist and cloud cover the slopes for much of the day. The tea plants grow slowly, and the leaves become thick and rich in flavour. Alishan oolong is usually lightly oxidised and rolled into small, tight balls. When brewed, the leaves open out, and the tea is pale gold, with a floral smell and a smooth, sweet taste. It is often harvested in spring and winter.
From leaf to cup
After picking, the leaves are spread out to wilt in the sun and shade. Workers turn and toss them gently, which bruises the edges and starts oxidation. The leaves are then heated to stop the process, rolled many times in cloth to form tight balls, and dried. Each step affects the final taste, and farmers adjust them to the weather and the leaf. Small family farms often do much of this work by hand. If you visit during the harvest, you may see the leaves drying and smell the tea in the air.
The Shizhuo tea trails
Shizhuo, on Highway 18 below Alishan, is a tea town at about 1,300 metres. Around it, a set of short trails winds through tea fields and forest. They are often named after the mist, clouds, tea and cherry blossom you see along the way. Each walk is short and easy, from about half an hour to an hour. Shizhuo often sits at cloud level, so on many afternoons the fields are wrapped in mist, which makes for beautiful photos. There are tea shops and simple guesthouses in the town.
Tasting and buying
Many farms and shops along Highway 18 offer free tastings. Staff brew the tea in a small pot and pour it into tiny cups so you can taste several teas side by side. Take your time, and ask about the farm, the height and the harvest season. Quality and price vary greatly, so taste before you buy. Good tea is sold in sealed, vacuum-packed bags that travel well. Buying from small farms directly supports the families who grow it. Be careful of very cheap tea labelled as Alishan, as some may be blended.
Brewing tips
Use hot water that is just off the boil for rolled oolong. Rinse the leaves quickly first, then steep. Short steeps of under a minute in a small pot bring out the flavour, and good leaf can be steeped five times or more. Each round tastes slightly different. If you use a large cup, use fewer leaves and steep for two to three minutes. Store opened tea in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. Light oolong is best within a year, while roasted styles keep longer.
High-Mountain Oolong at a glance
| Getting there | Tea towns lie along Highway 18 on the bus route from Chiayi |
|---|---|
| Growing height | Roughly 1,000–1,600 m |
| Tea trails | Shizhuo, about 1,300 m; short walks of 30–60 minutes |
| Cost | Tastings often free; prices depend on grade and harvest |
| Best time | Spring and winter harvests; afternoons for mist |