Lahar Canyons in Mount Pinatubo
Part of the Mount Pinatubo travel guide — see every topic in All Mount Pinatubo Guides.
The 1991 eruption covered large areas around Mount Pinatubo in ash and rock. Years of rain have since carried this material down the valleys, forming wide grey riverbeds and deep canyons. The 4x4 ride to the crater crosses this landscape. It is one of the most unusual places in the Philippines. Access depends on permits and conditions, and trips have sometimes been suspended. Check the current status before you go.
What is lahar?
Lahar is a mix of volcanic ash, rock and water that flows like wet concrete. After the 1991 eruption, heavy rains turned loose ash on the mountain into lahar, which flowed down the river valleys for many years. It buried roads, fields and parts of towns. When the lahar dried, it left flat, grey plains and high walls of ash. Rivers still cut through these deposits today, and the shape of the land keeps changing after each rainy season. This is why routes change from year to year.
The 4x4 ride
The 4x4 ride crosses wide, flat riverbeds of grey sand and small stones. Drivers follow routes that change with the seasons, crossing shallow streams many times. In places, the trail passes between tall canyon walls carved by water. The ride is bumpy and very dusty, but it is one of the highlights of the trip. Hold on tightly and keep your camera covered. Your guide may stop at viewpoints along the way for photos. Sit near the front if you get motion sick. Wear clothes you do not mind getting dusty.
Life returns
Since the eruption, plants have slowly returned to the slopes. Grass, shrubs and small trees now grow in places that were bare ash. Local farmers grow crops on some of the old lahar plains. Aeta families, the indigenous people of the area, have lived around the mountain for a very long time, and many moved after the eruption. Some have returned, and some now work as guides and 4x4 drivers. Treat local villages with respect and ask before taking photos of people.
Photography tips
The light is best in the early morning, when shadows show the shapes of the canyons. By midday, the grey ash can look flat and very bright. Sunglasses help your eyes. Dust is the biggest problem for cameras and phones. Keep them in a sealed bag during the 4x4 ride, and take them out only when stopped. A lens cloth is useful. A wide-angle lens or phone setting helps to show the scale of the canyons and the crater lake.
Lahar Canyons at a glance
| Getting there | Seen from the 4x4 route out of Capas, Tarlac |
|---|---|
| Hours | Early morning light is best |
| Cost | Part of the crater trip; no separate fee |
| Best time | December to April (dry season) |
| Bring | A dust mask and a sealed bag for your camera |