Food and Cafes in La Union
Part of the La Union travel guide — see every topic in All La Union Guides.
Food is a big reason people come back to La Union. In the last ten years, San Juan has filled up with small cafes, bakeries and casual restaurants opened by surfers and young cooks. You can eat a smoothie bowl in the morning, local grilled fish at lunch and pizza on the beach at sunset. San Fernando, the capital, adds busy markets and simple local eateries.
Cafes on the surf strip
The main road and the small lanes behind Urbiztondo beach are full of coffee shops. Many are simple, open-air places with wooden tables, plants and a view of the sea. They serve espresso drinks, cold brew, fresh fruit shakes and smoothie bowls with mango, banana and granola. Some have good wifi and quiet corners, so people work from their laptops during the week. Bakeries sell sourdough bread, cinnamon rolls and cakes. The scene changes often, as new places open and others close. Walk the strip and look at what looks busy, or ask the people at your hostel for their current favourites.
Ilocano and local dishes
La Union is part of the Ilocos region, and the local food is Ilocano. Try bagnet, which is crispy deep-fried pork, and pinakbet, a dish of mixed local vegetables cooked with fish or shrimp paste. Ilocos empanada is a crunchy orange pastry filled with egg, green papaya and sausage, fried to order at small stalls. Many places also serve grilled pork, chicken and rice for a cheap and filling meal. In Bauang, look for local grapes and guapple products like jam and juice. Ask for dishes that are less salty or less spicy if you prefer, as cooks are happy to adjust.
Seafood and markets
The coast here has fresh fish every day. Beach restaurants grill whole fish, squid and prawns over charcoal and serve them with rice, vinegar and sliced tomatoes. In San Fernando, the public market is a good place to see local life in the morning. You can find fish, fruit, vegetables, rice cakes and snacks. Some small eateries near the market will cook seafood that you buy. Fruit is cheap and very good in season, especially mangoes from about March to May. Bring small notes and coins for market shopping, as many stalls do not take cards.
Sunset and evenings
The coast faces west, so the sun sets over the sea. In the late afternoon, people sit on the sand with a drink to watch it. Several beach bars along the surf strip have bean bags, music and simple food. On weekends, the area can get busy with visitors from Manila, and some places have live music or DJs. During the week it is much calmer. If you want a quiet dinner, choose a restaurant a little away from the main strip. Many small places close early, so check opening hours if you plan to eat late.
Food and Cafes at a glance
| Where | San Juan surf strip and San Fernando city |
|---|---|
| Try | Bagnet, pinakbet, Ilocos empanada, grilled fish |
| Hours | Cafes from early morning; many kitchens close by about 10 pm |
| Cost | Cheap local eateries to mid-range cafes |
| Best time | Weekdays for quiet cafes; sunset for beach bars |
| Getting there | Walk the San Juan strip; tricycle to San Fernando |