Bicolano Food in Bicol Region
Part of the Bicol Region travel guide — see every topic in All Bicol Region Guides.
Bicol is known as the home of some of the spiciest food in the Philippines. Most Filipino food is mild, but Bicolano cooks love chillies and coconut milk. The most famous dish is Bicol Express, pork cooked with coconut milk and hot peppers. This guide covers the main dishes and where to try them.
Bicol Express
Bicol Express is pork cooked slowly in coconut milk with chillies, shrimp paste, garlic and onion. The sauce becomes thick, rich and creamy, with a strong heat from the peppers. It is eaten with plenty of white rice, which helps balance the spice. The dish is popular across the whole country, and many restaurants in Manila serve it too. In Bicol, it is often hotter. If you do not like spicy food, ask for less chilli when you order. A cold drink also helps.
Laing and pinangat
Laing is made from dried taro leaves cooked in coconut milk with chillies and shrimp paste. The leaves become soft and the dish is creamy, salty and spicy. It is a common side dish across Bicol. Pinangat is similar but different: taro leaves are wrapped around fillings such as shrimp or pork, tied into small parcels and cooked in coconut milk. Both dishes show how central coconut is to Bicolano cooking. Taro must be cooked well, so eat it at good restaurants.
Pili nuts and sweets
The pili tree grows well in the volcanic soil of Bicol, and the region is the main source of pili nuts in the Philippines. The nuts are rich and buttery. You can buy them roasted, honey glazed, or as pili brittle and tarts. They make a popular gift to take home. Shops in Legazpi and Naga sell many pili products. Look for pasalubong shops, which sell local food gifts. Packed pili nuts travel well and keep for a long time, so they are easy to carry home.
Chilli ice cream and other surprises
Some cafes in the Legazpi area sell sili ice cream. Sili means chilli. It is sweet and creamy at first, then a little hot at the end. It is a fun way to taste the region's love of spice. Other local dishes include kinunot, fish or stingray cooked with coconut milk and malunggay leaves, and many fresh seafood dishes. Ask local people for their favourite place to eat, because many of the best dishes come from small family restaurants. Keep water nearby.
Bicolano Food at a glance
| Getting there | Restaurants across Legazpi, Naga and other Bicol towns |
|---|---|
| Hours | Lunch and dinner; pasalubong shops in daytime |
| Cost | Cheap to moderate |
| Best time | Any time of year |
| Tip | Ask for less chilli if you prefer mild food |