La Paz Batchoy in Bacolod and Iloilo
Part of the Bacolod and Iloilo travel guide — see every topic in All Bacolod and Iloilo Guides.
La Paz batchoy is a noodle soup from Iloilo City. It is named after La Paz, a district of the city where it began. A bowl has fresh egg noodles, a rich pork broth, slices of pork and liver, fried garlic and crushed chicharon, which is crisp pork skin. It is warm, salty and filling. Many visitors come to Iloilo just to try it.
What is in the bowl
The base of batchoy is a deep, savoury broth made from pork bones, often with shrimp paste or other seasonings. Fresh round egg noodles go into the bowl first. On top are thin slices of pork, liver and sometimes intestines. Fried garlic, spring onions and crushed chicharon are added at the end. The chicharon softens slowly in the hot soup and adds a crunchy, rich taste. Some shops crack a raw egg into the broth. Each shop keeps its broth recipe private.
The La Paz Market
The classic place to eat batchoy is the La Paz Public Market. Inside are several long-running batchoy stalls with counters and stools. Two names often mentioned are Deco's and Ted's, both of which now also have branches around the city. Eating at the market is simple and cheap, and it gives you a feel of everyday life in Iloilo. Mornings are busy with workers and families. Many stalls let you add more broth, which locals call a refill. Bring cash in small notes, as most stalls do not take cards.
How to order
Batchoy is usually sold in sizes such as regular, special or extra special. Bigger sizes come with more noodles and more toppings. If you are not sure, ask for a regular bowl first. Taste the broth before adding anything. Many people add a little soy sauce, fish sauce or chilli. Eat it hot, with a spoon and chopsticks or a fork. It is common to eat batchoy for breakfast, lunch or as a late-night meal. A soft bread roll or puto, a small rice cake, goes well with it.
More Iloilo food
Iloilo has a strong food culture. Pancit Molo is a soup with dumplings filled with pork, named after the Molo district. Kansi is a sour beef soup with batwan, a sour local fruit. The city is close to the sea, so grilled fish, oysters and scallops are common and good value, especially in seafood restaurants along the coast. For sweets, try biscocho, a crisp, buttery toast, and butterscotch bars sold in many shops. Ilonggo food is usually mild, not spicy.
La Paz Batchoy at a glance
| Getting there | La Paz Public Market, a short ride from central Iloilo City |
|---|---|
| Hours | Market stalls from morning to evening; check each stall |
| Cost | Cheap; price depends on bowl size |
| Best time | Morning or lunch at the market |
| Order | A regular bowl first, then ask for a broth refill |