Chiang Mai
The unofficial capital of the north is small enough to walk across, with a moat-bordered Old City full of Lanna-era temples. Doi Suthep, the mountain temple above the city, is the postcard view. The surrounding hills are the centre of Thailand’s elephant-sanctuary tourism — choose carefully, the ethical and the touristy use the same vocabulary — and the cooking-school scene is the best in the country. The Sunday Walking Street market on Ratchadamnoen is the night to plan around. Pai, three hours north on a famously curving road, is the secondary destination most visitors add on.