Osaka

Osaka is the food city. Where Tokyo runs on understatement and Kyoto on tradition, Osaka runs on a particular kind of cheerful loud appetite — the local saying is kuidaore, “eat yourself ruined.” Dotonbori is the neon-lit canal where the giant moving crab sign looms over the takoyaki stalls; Kuromon Ichiba market is the daytime version. Osaka Castle is the obligatory historical stop, but the real itinerary here is a list of food (takoyaki, okonomiyaki, kushikatsu, kitsune udon) crossed off one stall at a time.

Getting around: Osaka's Midosuji subway line links Umeda, Shinsaibashi and Namba in minutes. Our interactive Osaka transit map animates the subway and the JR Loop at once — press play and tap any station.

Dotonbori canal at night with neon signs and giant illuminated mascots reflecting in the water, the famous moving Glico runner sign, dense crowd on the bridge — Dotonbori canal at night.

Octopus dumplings sizzling in a cast-iron griddle with circular molds at a takoyaki street stall, steam rising, paper trays of finished takoyaki — Takoyaki street stall.

Kuromon Ichiba market in daytime, covered shopping arcade lined with seafood stalls and produce vendors, fresh tuna on ice, locals shopping — Kuromon Ichiba market.

The white and green tiered fortress of Osaka Castle rising from a stone moat with blooming sakura trees in the foreground, pastel spring sky — Osaka Castle in cherry blossom season.

Okonomiyaki savory cabbage pancake bubbling on a hot teppan iron plate, chef in a white shirt with a metal spatula, evening atmosphere — Okonomiyaki on the teppan.

Hozenji Yokocho narrow lantern-lit stone alley at dusk lined with traditional wooden restaurants, moss-covered Mizukake Fudo statue — Hozenji Yokocho stone alley.

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