Osaka
Osaka is the food city. Where Tokyo runs on understatement and Kyoto on tradition, Osaka runs on a particular kind of cheerful loud appetite — the local saying is kuidaore, “eat yourself ruined.” Dotonbori is the neon-lit canal where the giant moving crab sign looms over the takoyaki stalls; Kuromon Ichiba market is the daytime version. Osaka Castle is the obligatory historical stop, but the real itinerary here is a list of food (takoyaki, okonomiyaki, kushikatsu, kitsune udon) crossed off one stall at a time.