Dumaguete City in Dumaguete and Apo Island

Part of the Dumaguete and Apo Island travel guide — see every topic in All Dumaguete and Apo Island Guides.

Dumaguete is the capital of Negros Oriental province and has about 140,000 people. It feels much smaller and calmer than Cebu or Manila. The centre is flat and easy to walk, with tricycles for longer trips. Students give the city a young, relaxed mood, and many foreigners stay here for months because life is simple and friendly.

Rizal Boulevard

Rizal Boulevard is a wide walk along the sea, lined with old trees, benches and lamp posts. In the early morning, people jog, walk dogs and exercise. In the late afternoon and evening, families and students come to sit by the water, eat street snacks and watch the sky change colour. On clear days you can see the hills of Siquijor and Cebu across the water. The street on the other side has cafes, bars and restaurants. It is the best place to start your first evening in the city and get a feel for local life.

A university town

Silliman University opened in 1901, and its large green campus is right in the city centre. You can walk under the big acacia trees and see the old wooden buildings. The university is well known for marine science, and its small marine lab museum shows whale bones and sea life. With several colleges in town, many students come here from across the Visayas and Mindanao. This makes Dumaguete a lively place, with bookshops, art events, music nights and cheap places to eat. In 2025, UNESCO named Dumaguete a Creative City of Literature.

Food and cafes

Eating in Dumaguete is easy and cheap. The city is famous for silvanas, a frozen cookie with cashew meringue and buttercream, and for sans rival, a cake made from the same ingredients. Try budbud, sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves, often eaten with hot chocolate or mango. In the evening, simple grill stalls sell skewers of pork, chicken and seafood. Coffee shops are everywhere, from student cafes to modern specialty coffee bars. The public market sells fresh fruit, fish and snacks, and it is a good place to try local food.

Getting around

Tricycles are the main transport inside the city. They are cheap, and most drivers know all the main places. Agree on the fare before short trips if there is no meter. Jeepneys and buses run along the coast road to Dauin, Zamboanguita and further south, and north to Sibulan and Bais. Ride-hailing apps are limited here, so ask your hotel how to book a car. Many people rent a scooter for day trips. Only do this with experience and a valid licence, and always wear a helmet.

Dumaguete City at a glance

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