Portuguese Settlement in Malacca
Part of the Malacca travel guide — see every topic in All Malacca Guides.
When the Portuguese took Malacca in 1511, Afonso de Albuquerque encouraged his men to marry local women, and the community that resulted — the Kristang — survived Dutch rule, British rule and independence. The Portuguese Settlement, Kampung Portugis, was established in the 1930s to house them and remains a distinct neighbourhood on the coast three kilometres east of the centre, with its own language, cuisine, Catholic festivals and, on a good night, live music by the sea.
The community
The Kristang are one of the oldest Eurasian communities in Asia, descended from Portuguese soldiers and traders and local Malay, Indian and Chinese women, and Catholic since the sixteenth century. Their language, Kristang or Papia Cristang, is a Portuguese-based creole with Malay grammar and is now spoken fluently by only a few hundred people — it is classified as severely endangered, and revitalisation efforts are underway. Surnames like Sequeira, De Costa, Rodrigues and Pereira are common in the settlement.
The food
Kristang cooking is genuinely distinct: Portuguese technique with South-East Asian ingredients. Debal — devil curry — is the emblem: a fiercely hot vinegar-and-chilli stew traditionally made from Christmas leftovers, and the name is a corruption of "leftovers" rather than a reference to the heat, though the heat justifies it. Baked fish in banana leaf with a chilli paste, feng (a curry of offal), curry seku and sugee cake complete the repertoire. Several open-air restaurants at the Medan Portugis square by the sea serve it.
Festivals
The settlement's Catholic calendar is its most visible feature. The Festa San Pedro in late June honours the patron saint of fishermen: boats are decorated and blessed, and there is music, dancing and food over several days. Christmas sees the whole settlement lit and decorated, with open houses, carolling and visitors from across Malaysia. Intrudu, before Lent, involves throwing water. These are community celebrations rather than tourist events, and visitors are welcomed rather than catered for, which is the right way round.
Visiting
The settlement is about three kilometres east of the historic core, ten minutes by Grab. Medan Portugis, the square by the sea, holds the restaurants and a small stage; evenings are the time to go, with sunset over the strait and, at weekends, live music. Expect 60–120 ringgit for two with seafood. It is a residential neighbourhood, so keep to the square and the restaurants unless invited. The nearby Portuguese Square museum and the small heritage centre cover the community's history.
Portuguese Settlement at a glance
| Origin | Portuguese conquest, 1511; settlement built in the 1930s |
|---|---|
| Language | Kristang — Portuguese creole with Malay grammar, endangered |
| Signature dish | Debal (devil curry) — vinegar and chilli |
| Where to eat | Medan Portugis square, by the sea — RM 60–120 for two |
| Main festival | Festa San Pedro, late June |
| Distance | ~3 km east of the historic core |